Author Topic: Power Strips?  (Read 460 times)

May 29, 2014, 06:40:21 PM
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Ozzy_98

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I'm not talking about what girls do to make ends meet in collage, I mean what do you use to power your systems?  Since I want to have 15+ systems ready to go, I'll need a lot of power, and since the wal-warts like to draw power even when off, switched outlets would be nice.  The problem is real ones (For rack mounts) can be very expensive.  What do most people use?  There's low end Rosewills http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119283 or I could go the other way and use something like http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=AP7830&tab=models that would support overload detection, and will give me a few other tricks.  As a matter of fact since my AV switch supports PC controls, I could select a system via an application and have it turn on the system, and change the selector. 

The problem with the big switch (besides price) is the plug.  It's a NEMA L5-20P plug, a twist-lock.  Even with an adapter, I do not have a 20 amp plug, and I've never seen an adapter that changed from the twist-locks down to straight pings AND lower amps. So that would be two cables, and a nice-looking fire hazard

May 29, 2014, 08:35:42 PM
Reply #1

KalessinDB

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As you noted, anything plugged in draws power, even if it's off.  So I don't keep my stuff all plugged in.  Conveniently, that means I only need 1 power strip.  The way I see it, if I'm going to be going over to the power strip to switch it on (do they draw even when switched off?  I've never looked into that), what's the difference for just plugging it in instead?  Works about the same either way.

Good luck getting it all figured out though.
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May 29, 2014, 09:27:22 PM
Reply #2

Lashek

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Personally, I use a smart strip.

Keep the TV in the primary outlet, and the other outlets only have power when I turn the TV on. When I turn it off, the other outlets go off.

Similar to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-Protector-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B0006PUDQK


[edit]
Alternatively, since you're dealing with a twist-lock, you could convert to standard 15A plug from 20A twist-lock, but you'd probably have to build the converter cable yourself. A little bit of #12 AWM SOOW cord and a female twist-lock with male 15A end. It's only a black/white/green (or bare copper) wire.

While against the electrical code, it would hold up just fine. There isn't much difference in the male plug at all from 15A to 20A outside of the orientation of the blades. This statement doesn't hold true for 15A and 20A wiring in general though. :P

Or this:
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/conntek-30221-bk-15-amp-generator-locking-plug-adapter-with-5-15p-male/255605719.html

Disclaimer: I was a licensed electrician up until 7 years ago when I left the field to become a computer programmer/developer full-time. I have 10 years of field experience, if that counts for anything.
« Last Edit: May 29, 2014, 09:47:47 PM by Lashek »
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May 29, 2014, 10:13:58 PM
Reply #3

Ozzy_98

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As you noted, anything plugged in draws power, even if it's off.  So I don't keep my stuff all plugged in.  Conveniently, that means I only need 1 power strip.  The way I see it, if I'm going to be going over to the power strip to switch it on (do they draw even when switched off?  I've never looked into that), what's the difference for just plugging it in instead?  Works about the same either way.

You can tell if they draw any real current by seeing if they're warm to the touch, and 90% of the walwarts are.

Quote
Personally, I use a smart strip.

Keep the TV in the primary outlet, and the other outlets only have power when I turn the TV on. When I turn it off, the other outlets go off.

Similar to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Strip-Protector-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B0006PUDQK
Like this one :P I use one inside my arcade machine, here's the page with the pics: http://rhwiii.info/blog/archives/616
And I never saw an adapter that went from L5-20R to 5-15P, they always went L5-20R to 5-15R or L5-20R to 5-20P (Sure hope I said that right, getting past my bed time).  My knowledge is based on walking techs through setting up devices in server rooms and the like.  I'm trying not to break electrical codes too much here at this house, the last house on this property burnt down.  Hate to have a repeat. (Hence the fancy power strip, so I feel better at night while I really know it's not really doing anything special).

May 30, 2014, 03:30:30 AM
Reply #4

Nacho3

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I have 2 of these and absolutely love them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Technical-Pro-PS9U-Rack-Mount-Power-Supply-with-5V-USB-Charging-Port-/390851819074?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b00957642 I just labeled which system is plugged in right above the switch and turn it on when I want to play it. It also has a usb port that I use to charge my phone with.

May 30, 2014, 07:01:49 AM
Reply #5

Lashek

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And I never saw an adapter that went from L5-20R to 5-15P, they always went L5-20R to 5-15R or L5-20R to 5-20P (Sure hope I said that right, getting past my bed time).  My knowledge is based on walking techs through setting up devices in server rooms and the like.  I'm trying not to break electrical codes too much here at this house, the last house on this property burnt down.  Hate to have a repeat. (Hence the fancy power strip, so I feel better at night while I really know it's not really doing anything special).

I completely understand. I don't really see it as much of an issue as the prongs on a 15A and 20A plug are the same material, same thickness, etc. The only difference is the hot/neutral is not parallel to each other. If it were a hazard, you wouldn't be able to plug a 15A appliance into a 20A line, for example. The bulk of the power usage usually comes when you turn a device on (depends on device components). It generally results in a quick power-spike before settling into it's true power usage.

If what you are plugging into can handle that, you have nothing to fear. If you're concerned, use a surge protector (as you have stated you plan to). If the line can't handle it, it will cause the breaker to trip. I believe 15A breakers trip around 12A (80% of rated usage). If your device is a continuous amp usage lower than 12A, there is nothing to fear here.

As for twist-lock connectors, there isn't much difference between them and a normal connector. They are made to not yank out if you kick the cord or if someone trips on it.

If you do decide to do it, I would just look at what your power draw will be across all the devices you intend to use and plan it out accordingly. Possibly put the device that has the 20A twist-lock onto a different circuit that doesn't have anything else on it.
« Last Edit: May 30, 2014, 07:26:26 AM by Lashek »
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May 30, 2014, 07:50:09 AM
Reply #6

Ozzy_98

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That's my problem, I KNOW it wouldn't be a fire hazard.  But it LOOKS like one.  And all the stuff we're told makes it seem like it's a firehazard to use a single extension cord, because it magically causes more draw.

December 03, 2018, 02:04:35 PM
Reply #7

e_brugal

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Hi everyone, sorry to revive this topic but didn't want to make another topic for this.

need some advice on something I saw here.

I'm looking for something like this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Technical-Pro-PS9U-Rack-Mount-Power-Supply-with-5V-USB-Charging-Port/191982819023?epid=11022988563&hash=item2cb31156cf:g:WkwAAOSwCGVX7Rjc

Nacho3 has two of those, four and a half years ago he loved them but now I don't know if there's something similar (with individual switches) but better, don't know if he still has them.

I was searching on youtube and watch this video, got afraid of buying one.

https://youtu.be/NgfoHJEdg7Q

Any comments will be appreciated

December 03, 2018, 02:27:05 PM
Reply #8

TDIRunner

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I'm using 3 of those exact switches from the eBay link in my current setup.  No issues on my end and I'm very happy with them.  Because the plugs are so close together (they have to be because they have so many), you will probably need some short 6" to 12" extensions to plug in anything that uses a brick on the power plug. 
Maybe, just once, someone will call me "sir" without adding, "you're making a scene."

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December 03, 2018, 02:30:22 PM
Reply #9

TDIRunner

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Here are two of them in action.  I know I have a better picture somewhere, but can't find it right now. 

Maybe, just once, someone will call me "sir" without adding, "you're making a scene."

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December 03, 2018, 02:35:53 PM
Reply #10

TDIRunner

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Here is a close up, but this was before I made my labels for each switch, which I highly recommend if you plan to use several of these.  It get's easy to forget which switch does what.

Maybe, just once, someone will call me "sir" without adding, "you're making a scene."

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December 03, 2018, 02:37:03 PM
Reply #11

Arseen

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Yeah if you have one to three (like Genesis, Sega CD and 32-X) consoles on at once you will be perfectly safe.
Those are two Amps each I think (as European is one Amp. Half Volts is double the Amps).
Just checked from the bottom of console and XBox One X running 110 Volts is 2.75 Amps (230 Volts is 1.3 Amps)

December 03, 2018, 03:05:09 PM
Reply #12

Nacho3

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I still have them and they work great. I have not had any problems at all.

December 04, 2018, 08:46:55 AM
Reply #13

Tech13

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I have this to offer some help.
https://youtu.be/500QtQlYWyg

December 04, 2018, 03:21:03 PM
Reply #14

e_brugal

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Thanks all for your comments on the subject  :)