Video Game Selector for AV cables

[AppleQueso]

N64 early versions are simple RGB

It requires a mod. Not a SUPER difficult mod, but there's a lot of different ways to go about it with varying results. I did one but I want to re-do it sometime. There's actually a mod you can do for the later models, but it's completely ridiculous.

Nice rule of thumb for RGB modding N64: If the serial number on the bottom starts with NS1, you're in good shape.

If you also really really want RGB on one of the later, colored n64 models, it's very easy to just swap the guts out with an older model.

[lotusoftheleaf]

I have six consoles hooked up to the single composite input on my TV using two of these daisy chained together.


I got them at RadioShack awhile ago. I think they were $20 each. I don't know how good they are compared to anything else, but I haven't noticed any problems. I'm sure I'm not getting the best possible picture quality out of my games, but I feel it's worth it for the convenience of not needing to screw around with wires.

[wiggy]

^^^ Ick + daisy chaining 2 = double ick.

I would NEVER use a Radio Shack branded product.  Not to be a snob about it, but their stuff is pretty much the cheapest of the cheap Chinese crap (no offense intended). 


With switch boxes, like MANY other products, you get what you pay for.  Now, that's not to say that you should spend hundreds of dollars on one, but I wouldn't skimp on this sort of thing unless you absolutely don't care about picture quality. 

As far as HDMI switch boxes go, if they work, they work, it they don't, they don't.  Signal degradation is almost a non-issue.  If you do run into degradation it'll be incredibly obvious (image dropout, "sparkles" in the image, that crummy super-compressed MPEG look, etc), so there's really no guessing as to whether your cables/switches are working to their potential or not.  HDMI is the only A/V format that I buy cheap-ass cables for and have had zero issues with, ever.

[AppleQueso]

on the other hand, it's kinda hard to fuck up a switchbox

[Velmeran]

Best place for switches (in the US anyway) is monoprice.com

[wiggy]

on the other hand, it's kinda hard to fuck up a switchbox

You'd like to think so, but that's not the case at all.  I've run into many, MANY shitty switch boxes in my life.  IMO, any that have the push button mechanism are crap, versus the boxes that detect signal and switch on their own.

[AppleQueso]

on the other hand, it's kinda hard to fuck up a switchbox

You'd like to think so, but that's not the case at all.  I've run into many, MANY shitty switch boxes in my life.  IMO, any that have the push button mechanism are crap, versus the boxes that detect signal and switch on their own.

Funny, I've always been told that nearly any auto-switch are going to be crap, while the mechanical ones tend to be more reliable and degrade the signal less...

Best place for switches (in the US anyway) is monoprice.com

That's the best place for anything ever.

Even their friggin' DRAWING TABLETS are insanely nice for the price they charge.

[wiggy]

Best place for switches (in the US anyway) is monoprice.com

For switches?  They only carry digital signal switches, nothing analogue (at least I can't find anything analogue on the site).

Funny, I've always been told that nearly any auto-switch are going to be crap, while the mechanical ones tend to be more reliable and degrade the signal less...

Well, I'm going by my personal experience and not what someone else has told me.

Electronic switches don't rely on a contact surface that experiences wear/abrasion/friction over and over like a mechanical switch.  I've had MANY mechanical switches dating back to the 80's which have eventually failed for one reason or another.  I've had 2 electronic switches that never gave me a single issue.  1 I sold because I didn't (think) I needed it anymore, and the other has found a home in a close friend's house who has been using it for about 2 years without issue (after I owned and used it for about 2 years as well).

Zero moving parts = less likely-hood of breaking as far as I've experienced.  This is also a big part of why my SNES that I bought in '91 still works, while I've had no less than 5 different PS1s, 3 Dreamcasts, 2PS2s, and 2 Xbox 360s.

[AppleQueso]

But the SNES has a sliding power button, that's a moving part 

5 Ps1s? I can believe it. I've probably ran across more broken, worn out, or just plain not working as well as they should Ps1s than any other console ever.

[Arseen]

But the SNES has a sliding power button, that's a moving part 

I was gonna say that but then realized he probably has a SNES for each game and keeps them running 24/7 (this also prevents wear on the cart connector).
He simply plugs in the console that the game he wants to play is in.

He probably dioes this with Wii too, as that's the most logical explanation of havihg 56 iof them.

[TyrannicalFascist]

Wiggy, I totally agree with you about Radio Shack - I've bought several pieces of electronics from them that flat out didn't work. That being said, I do have that av selector and it's a nice exception. I couldn't find any other good selectors locally on short notice, so I went with that, and it's actually worked just fine for nearly a year now.

[Azarkhel]

I have a black version of this thing: http://www.tori.fi/uusimaa/Joytech_AV_Control_Center_RGB_Scart_kytkin_3202000.htm

Picked it up for $40, absolutely love it.

[wiggy]

But the SNES has a sliding power button, that's a moving part  

5 Ps1s? I can believe it. I've probably ran across more broken, worn out, or just plain not working as well as they should Ps1s than any other console ever.

Well, the parts that do wear the most on cart-based systems are the ones that get touched.  The cartridge ports on pretty much every cart system are the first to go, and the input/output ports are often next (since things are often plugged and unplugged many times over the life of the console).  The power switch on the SNES is about as hearty as they come.  I've got one around here somewhere.  I'll have to snap a pic of it.  It's about as beefy as an AC power switch  


The 1001 PS1s ALL wore out at some point.  The worm gear on the CD drive was made of some plastic that was too soft for the purpose.  It wears out, and the drive can no longer move.  You can always tell when that's the problem because you could turn the system on its side or upside-down and it would work because the weight from the drive was placed on a non-worn area of the gear.  

I haven't seen a working 1001 with an OEM drive working in well over 10 years.  I went through 3 of those.  I damn near had the Sony customer service memorized by the time they finally sent me a 5000 series.

[Dr.Agon]

you could always build your own box, prices should be pretty cheap, and if anything goes wrong with it youd know how to fix it!,
this is what id have to do, since no one box would handle 25 inputs!

[wiggy]

So you're gonna build a 25 position switch?