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| Arseen:
--- Quote from: palmer6strings on September 29, 2013, 01:37:24 PM --- --- Quote from: Arseen on September 29, 2013, 01:32:19 PM --- --- Quote from: wiggy on September 29, 2013, 01:23:41 PM ---Where would I get the letters from? I'd still be stuck makin a 2nd set of molds to create the letters, which puts me right back into the "giant waste of time" zone. --- End quote --- Would letter printed on clear plastic film work instead? --- End quote --- Actually if you want to go that far, you could just get water slide paper, print out your letters, then put it on the buttons yourself. It wouldn't last forever, but you would get close to the same effect. --- End quote --- Not bad idea, but then the letter would be on top of the button, not inside it, right? |
| palmer6strings:
Correct. |
| wiggy:
--- Quote from: Arseen on September 29, 2013, 01:32:19 PM --- Would letter printed on clear plastic film work instead? --- End quote --- I guess, but it would be really hard to align and I just don't feel like it would produce a good result :-\ --- Quote from: palmer6strings on September 29, 2013, 01:37:24 PM --- --- Quote from: Arseen on September 29, 2013, 01:32:19 PM --- --- Quote from: wiggy on September 29, 2013, 01:23:41 PM ---Where would I get the letters from? I'd still be stuck makin a 2nd set of molds to create the letters, which puts me right back into the "giant waste of time" zone. --- End quote --- Would letter printed on clear plastic film work instead? --- End quote --- Actually if you want to go that far, you could just get water slide paper, print out your letters, then put it on the buttons yourself. It wouldn't last forever, but you would get close to the same effect. --- End quote --- Clear coat em afterward and it should last a good long time ;) --- Quote from: Arseen on September 29, 2013, 01:36:19 PM --- --- Quote from: wiggy on September 29, 2013, 01:23:41 PM ---On top of that, the likelihood of me pulling a good, full set from those molds would be quite slim. It's really tough to get 100% air bubble free parts when casting, especially on this scale. About 15-20% of the parts I cast end up in the trash for this reason. The smallest bubble can ruin an entire part. Not to mention that I'm back to mixing 5+ colors to make a single set. No thanks. --- End quote --- Would running the resin slowly thru syringe lessen the likeliy hood of bubbles? --- End quote --- You've never read my casting FAQ on the blog, have you? :P That's exactly what I do. In fact, it's about the only way to ensure that the resin flows into some if the tighter spots like the pivot posts on the back of Dpads. "Casting" and "perfect" aren't words that typically share a sentence. It's a fine art rather than an exact science. If the parts were larger and opaque, then a little spot putty or some body filler will fix the imperfections. The problem is that I can fill pits if I'm not going to paint the parts, and since the parts are so small, a bubble can eliminate an entire functional part such as one of the little arms that keep the button in place. I cannot repair something like that. And even if I could and was willing to, the amount of work required would completely negate any money I would have made. I've worked for quite some time on a proces that provides parts who's tolerances are extremely close to the original part, require little post de-mold cleanup (another reality of casting), and allows me to pour quickly without a large amount of poking around in the mold to ensure that all the cavities have been filled. The problem is that it's always going to be laborious and time consuming to cast parts and all the time required to perfect a process that would produce a 2-color part like that would be considerable. Not to mention that the stuff I make the molds with ain't at all cheap. |
| Arseen:
K |
| wiggy:
Wiggy mini-SNES will finally have a matching controller :D |
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