Author Topic: Component out  (Read 1156 times)

September 07, 2012, 04:12:40 AM
Reply #30

Azarkhel

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Thanks Wiggy!  Yeah I think I got something like this for Xbox: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HD-Component-AV-Cable-for-Original-Xbox-/390400069193?forcev4exp=true#ht_1714wt_952

would not recommend lol

Yep, thats a shit cable haha.

September 07, 2012, 03:23:15 PM
Reply #31

tbonesteak4dinner

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 :D Just in case you needed some tech babble about cables today:

An unspoken rule of thumb is that quality cables matter A LOT for analogue signals, and not so much for digital signals. With analogue, the quality of the signal is entirely dependent on how strong and clean the signal is. Everything gets interpreted 1 for 1, so if there's noise that gets introduced, it gets included in the signal. Crappy cables (usually weakly shielded or unshielded) allow cross-talk between the individual cables, as well as letting RF interference in from outside. Analogue distortion can be anything from the snow storm effect, washed out colors, changing colors, loss of sync (like you were experiencing), and a whole bunch of other things so sometimes it can be hard to tell whether the distortion is coming from the source, the cable, or the display. Diagnosing this depends heavily on exactly what devices you're working with.

With digital, as long as the device can interpret the 0's and 1's coming in clearly, then the signal will be 100% true to source, even if there's mild to moderate interference. It would take a lot of distortion or a long cable run to trip up a digital signal. Digital distortion is also easy to identify - non-working pixels will come in either black, red, or blue (there are others as well). Most monitors/LCD displays make this color stand out on purpose so you can easily see if there's a problem (i.e. you have a damaged cable or too long of a cable run). Digital is either on or off; working or not working (on a pixel by pixel basis).

Diagnosing digital display issues (from my experience YMMV):
1. If the non-working pixels are true black and stay in the exact same spot, there is most likely a problem with the display. (dead pixels) You're SOL unless you still are under warranty. Repairs can be costly.

2. If the non-working pixels are a single bright color and tend to move around with the image, there is most likely a problem with the cable. (correctly working display interpreting invalid info) For example, when my Gateway Monitor is receiving a bad signal, non-working pixels or lines show up as bright, true RED. Simple, replace the cable or use a shorter cable. Remember, this is only true with DVI and HDMI signals, as VGA and RGB are analogue.

3. If the non-working pixels are a non-black color (they can be "flickering" as well) and tend to stay in the exact same place, then there is most likely a problem with the source (I had both a Wii and Xbox 360 that showed green and brown pixels where the GPU had been damaged from too much heat). You're SOL here too unless you're under warranty. Wii's cost around $75 to be fixed at the factory, I assume others are similar or higher.

These guidelines are pretty loose, as there is also a lot of variance between digital devices. If you're getting problems with the video, always check everything to make sure you know where the problem is for sure!
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September 14, 2012, 07:08:04 PM
Reply #32

Deadpool

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i was searching for a gamecube component cable and damn those are expensive, there arent generic component cables for the cube?

September 14, 2012, 07:22:22 PM
Reply #33

wiggy

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^^^ The OEM cable is what you NEED. The GC doesn't output YPbPr natively. The cable itself actually converts the signal, hence the price :(


Great write up, Tbone!  That should get tossed in a sticky somewhere :)

September 14, 2012, 07:24:04 PM
Reply #34

BudgetGameCases

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i was searching for a gamecube component cable and damn those are expensive, there arent generic component cables for the cube?

This thread over at ASSEMBlergames illustrates fairly well that GameCube component cables are highly sought after.  I do not know of a generic substitute.

Basically, the guys over in ASSEMBlergames make just about anything, and even they can't find 'em.  :(
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September 14, 2012, 07:42:53 PM
Reply #35

wiggy

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3rd party GCN component cables simply don't exist. There would have been and IS no money to be made by an aftermarket company for such a product. There's an extremely limited market. I'm sure Nintendo didn't make a dime selling them either. A lot of R&D and tooling for a product that probably sold less than a couple thousand pieces.

September 14, 2012, 07:52:30 PM
Reply #36

Deadpool

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so whats the best alternative to play on your gamecube with a hdtv

September 14, 2012, 07:56:14 PM
Reply #37

wiggy

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S-video is about as good as you'll get. The good thing is that the cables are plentiful and cheap since they're the same for the SNES, N64, & GCN.

September 14, 2012, 08:02:30 PM
Reply #38

Deadpool

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S-video is about as good as you'll get. The good thing is that the cables are plentiful and cheap since they're the same for the SNES, N64, & GCN.

my tv doesnt have s video input, should i use a s video to hdmi converter?

September 14, 2012, 09:03:58 PM
Reply #39

Deadpool

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September 14, 2012, 09:08:58 PM
Reply #40

wiggy

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I've got no experience with those, so I can't help ya there :(

It does seem that the newer the TV, the worse classic systems look on them. Plus, it's hard to know which TVs are the most capable of properly displaying the images from old systems.  I know my Samsung LCD absolutely sucks when I hook up the SNES. I get the now well documented bar of noise through the screen that seems to plague Samsung screens, and the picture is far from crisp on top of that. On the other hand, my Sony DLP does an absolutely amazing job of handling the signal from the older stuff plus it has a ton of inputs, unlike the really new TVs. 2 S-vid, 2 component, 2 RCAs on top of the 2 S-vid, DVI, 2 coax in and coax out, RCA out. 

What kind of picture are you getting with composite? 

September 14, 2012, 09:21:50 PM
Reply #41

Deadpool

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I've got no experience with those, so I can't help ya there :(

It does seem that the newer the TV, the worse classic systems look on them. Plus, it's hard to know which TVs are the most capable of properly displaying the images from old systems.  I know my Samsung LCD absolutely sucks when I hook up the SNES. I get the now well documented bar of noise through the screen that seems to plague Samsung screens, and the picture is far from crisp on top of that. On the other hand, my Sony DLP does an absolutely amazing job of handling the signal from the older stuff plus it has a ton of inputs, unlike the really new TVs. 2 S-vid, 2 component, 2 RCAs on top of the 2 S-vid, DVI, 2 coax in and coax out, RCA out. 

What kind of picture are you getting with composite? 

very blurry and pixelated, now that i have the component cable for the ps2 i can really notice the difference.

September 14, 2012, 09:32:22 PM
Reply #42

wiggy

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Hmm, if it's that bad with composite, then S-vid may not make a significant difference. Even so, those S-Vid cables are really, really cheap. May as well give it a go before contemplating purchasing the pricey component cable.

September 14, 2012, 09:41:01 PM
Reply #43

Deadpool

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Hmm, if it's that bad with composite, then S-vid may not make a significant difference. Even so, those S-Vid cables are really, really cheap. May as well give it a go before contemplating purchasing the pricey component cable.

i wont pay that much for a cable its simply overpriced.

i`ll stick with s video + scaler in the amazon reviews people said it works just fine with older consoles usin composite, so i think that with s video and gamecube it would be better.

September 14, 2012, 10:08:26 PM
Reply #44

Deadpool

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