The Cover Project
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Dravenae on April 04, 2013, 03:54:42 PM
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Alright as the title suggest. How do you clean your games, what do you use, and what are your preferences?
For disc based games, I just use the same clothe used for cleaning glasses. Since there free where I live, I stock up on them. I just give the disc a wipe over, removing any dust or finger prints. If the disc is particularly dirty, I'll fill up a small bowl of COLD water, let the disc sit for a bit, then let it sit on kitchen paper for about 5 - 10 seconds, and when all the excess water is gone, use the same method as previously mentioned. Provides scratch free cleaning.
For cases, I tend to use good old window cleaner. Makes them feel as good as new, but if there's any stickers or sticker residue, I use a que tip and a bit of oil, saturate the sticker/residue, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, then wipe it off. It usually comes off in one fair swoop and has no ill affects. I obviously go over it with windows cleaner after to get rid of any traces of oil left.
For cartridge based games, well that's when its gets odd. I have different methods for different cartridges.
For all games, I clean the contacts and the area around the contacts with WD40 and window cleaner. I take the cartridge apart, then using the window cleaner, clean around the contact area were dust generally and dirt generally likes to settle. For the contacts I use good old WD40, it doesn't provide as good of a clean as rubbing alcohol, but I find that it provides assurance and games don't need to be cleaned as often. I wipe off all excess WD40 with the same type of clothe as I use to clean discs. I might start using rubbing alcohol and WD40 together, as in give it a good clean with rubbing alcohol first, then provide a coat of WD40 after.
For cleaning mega drive cartridges, I generally use a damp tooth brush to get rid of any dirt stuck in hard to reach places, then go over the cartridge with WD40. Doesn't hurt the label, but provides a *like new* shine to the cartridge and label. I wipe all excess WD40 off.
For NES, SNES, and N64 games, I haven't really got a decent method for cleaning the cartridge, as I'm not sure what chemicals may react badly with the gray plastic, though I have been looking at Wiggy's videos, and might start using the same method as him for NES, SNES, and N64 games.
So how do you guys and gals clean your games?
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For contacts, isopropyl (91-99%), brasso, magic eraser, and 000 steel wool (for really crusted up contacts).
• Iso is great for regular cleaning.
• Brasso is OK for mild patina removal.
• Magic eraser will clean up most any crap on the contacts
• Steel wool is a last ditch effort if something is really crusty and nothing else will remove the corrosion. Brass wool works too, just more expensive and I don't see the need to pay the premium. Obviously just make sure to clean up any steel burrs left behind with some canned air.
I also put a small silica gel packet in EVERY UGC to help keep the carts nice and dry. I'm sorta OCD like that :P
For discs, I use mild dish detergent, run the disc under a warm tap, and use my thumb. The detergent is really the key as it acts like a lubricant to help prevent scuffing, not to mention that it's a decreasing agent.
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Those are some good tips wiggy. How do you feel about Weiman's Glass cooktop cleaner for contacts?
I've used that for years and swear it's the very best thing for cleaning cartridge contacts.
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This wasn't really a question as much as it was to see how you guys clean your games. I already have a set routine, was just interested. :D
• Brasso is OK for mild patina removal.
I actually bought some before I read the horror stories, even if it's bullshit, I'd rather not risk it. 23 year old students can't afford to replace games. :D
I also put a small silica gel packet in EVERY UGC to help keep the carts nice and dry. I'm sorta OCD like that :P
That sounds like a fucking awesome idea! I might try that one!
For discs, I use mild dish detergent, run the disc under a warm tap, and use my thumb. The detergent is really the key as it acts like a lubricant to help prevent scuffing, not to mention that it's a decreasing agent.
:-X :-X :-X ... Okay... LOL, as long as it's after purchase and not all the time, that's cool. For regular cleaning though, try picking up the clothes I use! Been using them for years, definitely a safe investment, unless you can get them for free! Free is always better! ;D
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Those are some good tips wiggy. How do you feel about Weiman's Glass cooktop cleaner for contacts?
I've used that for years and swear it's the very best thing for cleaning cartridge contacts.
Never even heard of that as a solution! I'll have to take a look at it sometime.
This wasn't really a question as much as it was to see how you guys clean your games. I already have a set routine, was just interested. :D
• Brasso is OK for mild patina removal.
I actually bought some before I read the horror stories, even if it's bullshit, I'd rather not risk it. 23 year old students can't afford to replace games. :D
I also put a small silica gel packet in EVERY UGC to help keep the carts nice and dry. I'm sorta OCD like that :P
That sounds like a fucking awesome idea! I might try that one!
For discs, I use mild dish detergent, run the disc under a warm tap, and use my thumb. The detergent is really the key as it acts like a lubricant to help prevent scuffing, not to mention that it's a decreasing agent.
:-X :-X :-X ... Okay... LOL, as long as it's after purchase and not all the time, that's cool. For regular cleaning though, try picking up the clothes I use! Been using them for years, definitely a safe investment, unless you can get them for free! Free is always better! ;D
There are Brasso horror stories?! :/
The silica packets are dirt cheap and totally worth it IMO. I think I got like 500 on ebay for about 15 bucks :)
I only ever clean disc-based games once, if ever. There's no need to clean them over and over unless you're touching the surface or dropping them on the floor LOL! They don't corrode, so they don't need the upkeep that carts do. If I buy one and it's dirty, I clean it, end of story. I've got TONS of micro fiber towels for other stuff, just don't see any reason to ever use them to clean discs.
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There are Brasso horror stories?! :/
Yeah. Due to the abrasive nature of Brasso, it has been reported that it can supposedly strip your games contacts. There's a few testimonies floating around on youtube, plus the ammonia will do no favors for your games either, hence I never use the window cleaner on the contacts. I reckon I'll be using an eraser, Iso, and WD40 from now on. WD40 is great, but it doesn't give as good as results as Iso, but it definitely has pro's over using Iso alone.
EDIT: here's an example of such.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRKAOwbBwmg
The silica packets are dirt cheap and totally worth it IMO. I think I got like 500 on ebay for about 15 bucks :)
Yeah, I think I'll shall follow your lead on this one. In combination with WD40, my games shall never rush! muahahahaa! LOL.
I only ever clean disc-based games once, if ever. There's no need to clean them over and over unless you're touching the surface or dropping them on the floor LOL! They don't corrode, so they don't need the upkeep that carts do. If I buy one and it's dirty, I clean it, end of story. I've got TONS of micro fiber towels for other stuff, just don't see any reason to ever use them to clean discs.
I wouldn't expect you to clean your disc based games more than once, what I meant is that consoles gather dust over time and use, so I use the microfibre towels to wipe any dust off of my disc based games. Doesn't scratch them and keeps them in good shape. In regards to the use of detergent, why would you use anything other than cold water, unless your games are jacked up? If you were buffing your games because they weren't being read, then fair enough, but other than that, just use cold water and a microfibre towel, but if it works for you, then fair enough. Each to their own I guess. :)
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There are Brasso horror stories?! :/
Yeah. Due to the abrasive nature of Brasso, it has been reported that it can supposedly strip your games contacts. There's a few testimonies floating around on youtube, plus the ammonia will do no favors for your games either, hence I never use the window cleaner on the contacts. I reckon I'll be using an eraser, Iso, and WD40 from now on. WD40 is great, but it doesn't give as good as results as Iso, but it definitely has pro's over using Iso alone.
EDIT: here's an example of such.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRKAOwbBwmg
The silica packets are dirt cheap and totally worth it IMO. I think I got like 500 on ebay for about 15 bucks :)
Yeah, I think I'll shall follow your lead on this one. In combination with WD40, my games shall never rush! muahahahaa! LOL.
I only ever clean disc-based games once, if ever. There's no need to clean them over and over unless you're touching the surface or dropping them on the floor LOL! They don't corrode, so they don't need the upkeep that carts do. If I buy one and it's dirty, I clean it, end of story. I've got TONS of micro fiber towels for other stuff, just don't see any reason to ever use them to clean discs.
I wouldn't expect you to clean your disc based games more than once, what I meant is that consoles gather dust over time and use, so I use the microfibre towels to wipe any dust off of my disc based games. Doesn't scratch them and keeps them in good shape. In regards to the use of detergent, why would you use anything other than cold water, unless your games are jacked up? If you were buffing your games because they weren't being read, then fair enough, but other than that, just use cold water and a microfibre towel, but if it works for you, then fair enough. Each to their own I guess. :)
The thing is that he's wrong (about the materials used in the contacts). SNES carts don't use any gold in their contacts as it would have been prohibitively expensive.. They use a brass alloy, which should get along just fine with Brasso. There's no way that Brasso was the sole reason that he stripped those contacts bare. Just not possible.
My games stay in cases and don't get dusty and my systems are kept extremely clean. Dust isn't something that I worry about.
Like I said, "If I buy one and it's dirty, I clean it, end of story." By dirty I mean greasy fingerprints, actual dirt, and dust. That sort of thing is more easily cleaned up with a mild detergent in my experience, as water is incapable of emulsifying grease on it's own. Again, I don't do maintenance dusting on my disc-based games. No need for me to, and if I did, I'd likely just use canned air so that I'm not actually touching the disc any more than I need to.
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Fair enough dude. ;D
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i just use this polish solution that i get from www.nintendorepairshop.com
it works pretty well too..
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I'm pretty sure that's literally just watered down weiman's class cooktop cleaner.
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I thought about using the silica packets in the UGC's but didn't know if it was worth investing in. It makes sense though. Moisture absorption reduces corrosion.
Pretty much all I use is a clean cloth for discs, although I am so OCD about them they rarely get dirty. 91% Iso or an pencil eraser. Stickers, uses Goo Gone and Iso.
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They're DIRT cheap. Totally worth it IMO ;D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-packs-drypack-1-Gram-Silica-Gel-Packets-Desiccants-Ship-Dry-Free-shipping-/390570588815?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aefd23a8f
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This is my preferred method.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEqhgTqvV0Y
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This is my preferred method.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEqhgTqvV0Y
Brasso. Works great for that hard to get off grime. Isopropyl on the other hand.
1. 91% percent or above.
2. Do not cut it with water.
The 70% percent is already cut with 30% sterile water anyway. Cutting it 50% again, you may as well just use plain old filtered/boiled water. Isopropyl doesn't leave residue behind so cutting it is pointless. I mean a 32oz bottle of 91% is $1.50 at Wal-Mart so...
I realize that you probably posted that to show us how you clean your games. I just get irritated with these kind of things. *Sigh* I end this by deconstructing a 5 year old Youtube video. :-[
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Agreed. No reason on the planet to dilute ISO, especially the weak-ass 30/70 mixture any further. In fact,
I won't even touch 30/70. 91%-up is all I'd ever bother with personally. Why make extra work for yourself?
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Been trying to pick up some 99%, but anyone I found doesn't ship internationally, or only does 500ml bottles.
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ebay?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IPA-Isopropyl-Alcohol-99-9-Pure-5-Litre-5L-/140573763007?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&hash=item20bad965bf (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IPA-Isopropyl-Alcohol-99-9-Pure-5-Litre-5L-/140573763007?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&hash=item20bad965bf)
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91% should be fine for almost any job.
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Dravenae said he couldnt find any, so i did a quick search
also, its easy to dilute, then you'd have a little bit more
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He said he couldn't find 99% ;)
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ebay?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IPA-Isopropyl-Alcohol-99-9-Pure-5-Litre-5L-/140573763007?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&hash=item20bad965bf (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IPA-Isopropyl-Alcohol-99-9-Pure-5-Litre-5L-/140573763007?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&hash=item20bad965bf)
Yea, I was looking, but I only found stuff that charged shipping out the ass, and the Irish distributors only had 500ml bottles. I'm content with WD40 for the moment, but I'm definitely going to have to get some Iso soon!
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Hey guys! Quick question. My Mum knew I was on the look out for some rubbing alcohol and she found something called "Ovelle -Surgical Spirit - BP".
Ovelle being the brand make.
I checked out the usual alcohol percentage of Surgical Spirit, and I got 70%. Apparently the BP part stands for "British Pharmacopoeia", and googled that and it gave me the same thing. I googled Surgical Spirit BP and I got 95%... That can't be right?
Anyone know of it or used it before?
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Sounds like it might be ethyl-based. If so, it's no good for use on ABS plastic.
After doing some reading, sounds like it contains ethanol and methanol. Don't use it to clean your games.
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according to google surgical spirits are mostly methanol and ethanol
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Started to used a rubber/eraser along with WD40 now.The contacts look pretty bad ass now. :)
I have one game that was pretty fucked up. TMNT IV. The front of the cart itself was in pretty good condition, the back could do with replacing, but that's another topic. The thing I wanted to talk about was the contacts. I bought this game on ebay, and it looked in pretty good shape, so for £20, I though I'd give it ago. Got it in the post and was a little let down with the back of the cart. I opened it up to give it a clean, lo and behold, there was something on the contacts that looked like rust... I gave it a clean with WD40 and removed a lot of dirt and grime, but it was still a bit rough in area's. I was getting nothing else off with each new que tip being clean. It bugged me but I let it go as it was working.
After a few months of game playing, I decided it was time to clean my games up again, and since I had just bought a tri wing screw driver, I can now give my GBA games a good and proper clean, so I had another good reason to give everything a good clean. I got to TMNT IV, opened it up, bar the dirt I couldn't get up, the contacts were still gleaming, but seeing the dirt, it annoyed me. I tried using an eraser in combination with WD40. I shifted some of the dirt, but not all of it, so I decided to use some Brasso after reading Wiggys comment... Fuck tons of dirt came off the game, I went through 4-5 que tips easy, but the contacts started to go from a bronze color to a silvery color with a yellow/bronze hue... I shit a brick, cleaned the brasso off, gave it a coat of WD40, put the board back into the cart and put it back in its UGC... I haven't tried to play it yet...
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It got lighter in color because its now clean lol. I use a nice rough wash cloth with a dab of brasso and wipe it off with 91% iso. Just hearing wd40 on carts scares me lol.
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Sometimes the gold plating can wear down off the contacts, but Brasso works like a dream. I've heard of severe cases where people had to physically remove the gold part, but I haven't experienced it myself.
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It's not gold, it's brass. If you wear through it, then you're using something far too abrasive.
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It got lighter in color because its now clean lol. I use a nice rough wash cloth with a dab of brasso and wipe it off with 91% iso. Just hearing wd40 on carts scares me lol.
I know what clean contacts looks like, these things were silver. I use Brasso as a last resort and honestly its the last time I hope to use it. The amonia and abrasive nature of brasso doesn't really do your games any favours, unless their fucked anyway.
WD40 is fine. The idea that it leaves a film holds no water, you might say it... displaces it... :D... Wipe off any excess and your good.
A rubber/eraser/iso + WD40 and your games are good to go.
It's not gold, it's brass. If you wear through it, then you're using something far too abrasive.
Just a que tip and brasso man... :-\
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They're DIRT cheap. Totally worth it IMO ;D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-packs-drypack-1-Gram-Silica-Gel-Packets-Desiccants-Ship-Dry-Free-shipping-/390570588815?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aefd23a8f
Thank you for the link. I am going to start using these too. Might as well protect our investments. lol
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i would really like to know where these guys get these cleaning cloths for the pins because this website overcharges for them
http://www.nintendorepairshop.com/products/92-Nintendo-Cartridge-Cleaning-Cloths-10-Pads-Non-Static/
they are kind of like disposable work shop towels but are smaller and anti-static?
they feel more paper based. the only ones i was able to find on my own are more like thread.
(http://www.nintendorepairshop.com/images/full/cleaningpads.jpg)
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I just use old T-shirts for the rags. Bleach and oxygen cleaner will get most of the stains out.
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I just use old T-shirts for the rags. Bleach and oxygen cleaner will get most of the stains out.
Bleach doesn't sound like a good idea. And oxygen cleaner doesn't either since I assume you have to use water with it.
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anybody try acetone?
wouldnt do the plastic any good, but it removes most stuff!
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Bleach doesn't sound like a good idea. And oxygen cleaner doesn't either since I assume you have to use water with it.
I was talking about washing the shirts after using them on the games.
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Oh yeah. I meant to say, TMNT IV works fine! Crisis adverted! ;D
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Was just thinking. The fact that the GameBoy range have always lacked something to cover the cartridge slot has always bugged me. I don't particularly want to get around that by just leaving a game in all the time, and even in a case or box, it still bugs me. So I got to thinking, Nintendo finally did something about it with the DS with the slot 2 covers, so why can't I just pick up replacement slot covers for the DS and modify them slightly to fit into a GB,GBP,GBC,GBA,GBA:SP cart slot?
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/New-Nintendo-DS-Lite-Replacement-Black-Slot-2-Cover-UK-/400232786537?pt=UK_VideoGames_VideoGameAccessories_VideoGameAccessories_JN&hash=item5d2fbbaa69#ht_1335wt_902
I think I might just try it. Keep the pins nice and clean for as long as possible.
Thoughts?
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Was just thinking. The fact that the GameBoy range have always lacked something to cover the cartridge slot has always bugged me. I don't particularly want to get around that by just leaving a game in all the time, and even in a case or box, it still bugs me. So I got to thinking, Nintendo finally did something about it with the DS with the slot 2 covers, so why can't I just pick up replacement slot covers for the DS and modify them slightly to fit into a GB,GBP,GBC,GBA,GBA:SP cart slot?
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/New-Nintendo-DS-Lite-Replacement-Black-Slot-2-Cover-UK-/400232786537?pt=UK_VideoGames_VideoGameAccessories_VideoGameAccessories_JN&hash=item5d2fbbaa69#ht_1335wt_902
I think I might just try it. Keep the pins nice and clean for as long as possible.
Thoughts?
Considering how much shorter the DS lite's GBA cart slot is compared to every other model of Gameboy: That probably won't work too well.
A better idea would be to buy junk/broken games, maybe remove the board, and keep them in the slot when you're not playing anything. (Although the DS lite cart slot does have a board with pins going nowhere. Never understood that)
Or just buy NEW empty cart shells here. (http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/clear-plastic-circuit-cases)
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I don't think acetone is a good idea. Stuff is awfully caustic. Plus, it's not really meant as a cleaner or for oxidization removal, which are the two things to worry about with cart contacts :-\
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Was just thinking. The fact that the GameBoy range have always lacked something to cover the cartridge slot has always bugged me. I don't particularly want to get around that by just leaving a game in all the time, and even in a case or box, it still bugs me. So I got to thinking, Nintendo finally did something about it with the DS with the slot 2 covers, so why can't I just pick up replacement slot covers for the DS and modify them slightly to fit into a GB,GBP,GBC,GBA,GBA:SP cart slot?
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/New-Nintendo-DS-Lite-Replacement-Black-Slot-2-Cover-UK-/400232786537?pt=UK_VideoGames_VideoGameAccessories_VideoGameAccessories_JN&hash=item5d2fbbaa69#ht_1335wt_902
I think I might just try it. Keep the pins nice and clean for as long as possible.
Thoughts?
Considering how much shorter the DS lite's GBA cart slot is compared to every other model of Gameboy: That probably won't work too well.
A better idea would be to buy junk/broken games, maybe remove the board, and keep them in the slot when you're not playing anything. (Although the DS lite cart slot does have a board with pins going nowhere. Never understood that)
Or just buy NEW empty cart shells here. (http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/clear-plastic-circuit-cases)
the pins are what holds the cartridge in there.
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...(Although the DS lite cart slot does have a board with pins going nowhere. Never understood that)...
the pins are what holds the cartridge in there.
Hmmm...
*takes GBA slot cover apart, removes board, puts in back in DS lite*
Nope, it stays in fine without pins.
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...(Although the DS lite cart slot does have a board with pins going nowhere. Never understood that)...
the pins are what holds the cartridge in there.
Hmmm...
*takes GBA slot cover apart, removes board, puts in back in DS lite*
Nope, it stays in fine without pins.
I second that motion. Tried it last night after I posted this. It fit fine.
The only modification you could do, not that it needs to be done, is remove that extra overlap. It will definitely keep the pins clean and dust free. I think I'm going to invest in some.
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Opens up Solidworks, builds quick GB slot cover, click print...
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Opens up Solidworks, builds quick GB slot cover, click print...
You and your fancy gizmos...
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Has anyone tried this de-yellowing technique on their SNES
http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/The+Gallery
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Not on the SNES but on a bunch of GB and GBA systems as well as a Wonderswan color. There are pics of be Swan in my thread and I think on my site too. Worked really well.
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I might give it a shot, I hate my SNES looking like someone pissed all over it.
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What kind of cloth does everybody here use to scrub contacts with?
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Old T-shirts.
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I might give it a shot, I hate my SNES looking like someone pissed all over it.
I scoured the entire earth to find a non-pissed SNES and I found one in the deepest darkest depths of the land.
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I somehow manage to have 3 that are really white still. Of course I've got 4 or 5 others that are dooky :/
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Just wanted to second using Weiman's cleaner. Its made for those smooth top ranges. It non abrasive if I remember quickly. I take apart most cart games where its possible and use this on the contacts then do a wipe down with alcohol when I am done. This stuff works like a charm. I use it with cotton swabs but you could use any old cloth I assume as well.
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Do you guys know how to get rid of the resurfacing compound residue in the middle of a disc without damaging the disc further?
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Does anybody here think that 91% isopropyl alcohol dries up and damages the plastic on game cartridges?
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Does anybody here think that 91% isopropyl alcohol dries up and damages the plastic on game cartridges?
I don't know, I just stick with goo gone and/or I follow the advice from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iZyxFN1QpI
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Does anybody here think that 91% isopropyl alcohol dries up and damages the plastic on game cartridges?
Been using 91% for a while and I have yet to have any problems with it.
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Do you guys know how to get rid of the resurfacing compound residue in the middle of a disc without damaging the disc further?
Warm water.
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I have a pawn shop not too far from me that resurfaces all of their disc based games before they sell them. Most of the time they have that residue left behind in the center ring. You dont even need to use water. One wipe with my finger around the ring and it always comes right off for me.
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So, in light of he recent concern over the use of Brasso, I've been experimenting with other things. What I've found that works quite excellently is Tarn-X. So far I've used I to clean a few rather corroded carts that were in my junk/trade/donor cart bins with no side effect of any sort. It also requires nearly zero effort to be effective. Dip Q-tip, wipe contacts gently, corrosion literally dissolves, but good contact material remains.
I wanna give a more thorough testing before I wholeheartedly recommend it, but initial results seem very promising.
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So, in light of he recent concern over the use of Brasso, I've been experimenting with other things. What I've found that works quite excellently is Tarn-X. So far I've used I to clean a few rather corroded carts that were in my junk/trade/donor cart bins with no side effect of any sort. It also requires nearly zero effort to be effective. Dip Q-tip, wipe contacts gently, corrosion literally dissolves, but good contact material remains.
I wanna give a more thorough testing before I wholeheartedly recommend it, but initial results seem very promising.
This is just for the metal contacts, right? You don't use this on the plastic? I've had good luck so far with WD-40 for cleaning contacts.
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So, in light of he recent concern over the use of Brasso, I've been experimenting with other things. What I've found that works quite excellently is Tarn-X. So far I've used I to clean a few rather corroded carts that were in my junk/trade/donor cart bins with no side effect of any sort. It also requires nearly zero effort to be effective. Dip Q-tip, wipe contacts gently, corrosion literally dissolves, but good contact material remains.
I wanna give a more thorough testing before I wholeheartedly recommend it, but initial results seem very promising.
Keep us up to date bro! I have resorted to Brasso twice when I deemed it necessary, but I would prefer to avoid it when I can, favoring an eraser, iso, and WD40 instead. Whenever I have used Brasso the contacts come up a silvery color compared to the usual bronze - golden color. They have all worked, but I don't like that it's changing the color of the contacts. I don't like it at all.
This reminds me. I still need to buy me some silica packets.In combination with WD40 my contacts shall last a while.
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I don't use Brasso, but I do use another ammonia based metal polish. Yes, the contacts look slightly more silver, but I'm not too worried about it. Most of the games I picked up over the recent years have been dirty, and generally uncared for. Every game that gets the metal polish treatment will live out the rest of its days in a case.
I was getting to the point where erasers and alcohol just wasn't doing the trick any more. Or, I'd have to do every other time I put a cartridge in. Ever since I started polishing, they work the first time and every time. That's good enough for me.
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Try WD40 man. Never had a problem with it whatsoever. Keeps the game contacts clean and keep dirt and rust at bay.
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For contacts, isopropyl (91-99%), brasso, magic eraser, and 000 steel wool (for really crusted up contacts).
• Iso is great for regular cleaning.
• Brasso is OK for mild patina removal.
• Magic eraser will clean up most any crap on the contacts
• Steel wool is a last ditch effort if something is really crusty and nothing else will remove the corrosion. Brass wool works too, just more expensive and I don't see the need to pay the premium. Obviously just make sure to clean up any steel burrs left behind with some canned air.
I also put a small silica gel packet in EVERY UGC to help keep the carts nice and dry. I'm sorta OCD like that :P
For discs, I use mild dish detergent, run the disc under a warm tap, and use my thumb. The detergent is really the key as it acts like a lubricant to help prevent scuffing, not to mention that it's a decreasing agent.
This is pretty much what I've been doing. However, I've never though of using the gel packets. I like that and I think I'm going to do that as I go through cleaning games.
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I store my stuff in my basement, and even though I do run 2 dehumidifiers all year long, I figure the extra protection can't hurt. Plus the packets are sooooo cheap. Do it!
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I store my stuff in my basement, and even though I do run 2 dehumidifiers all year long, I figure the extra protection can't hurt. Plus the packets are sooooo cheap. Do it!
Yep, all my gaming stuff is in the basement as well. Thankfully in Utah it's generally pretty dry. For the money though, no real reason not to! I'm ordering some right now.
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Cool!
As an FYI, I stick em in there with a dab of hot glue. It's quick, and pretty easy to remove later on if you want. Just thought I'd let you know that tidbit ;)
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I store my stuff in my basement, and even though I do run 2 dehumidifiers all year long, I figure the extra protection can't hurt. Plus the packets are sooooo cheap. Do it!
Yep, all my gaming stuff is in the basement as well. Thankfully in Utah it's generally pretty dry. For the money though, no real reason not to! I'm ordering some right now.
I've started using them too and I live in utah as well!!
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Has any one tryed these to clean the yellow in ther consoles
http://m.youtube.com/#/user/myst32YT
They used to have it for sale in these section of their page but they don't have it now.
http://chemkitdepot.com/plasticrestoration.aspx
I try to buy from them the product but they don't ship that product outside of the states and i live in the Dominican Republic (they even have a note saying that they're not responsable of the product when it goes out of their facility) . I have a BM cargo direction in Miami, everything i buy goes to Miami and the to the Dominican Republic, but i don't know what will hapen when the product arrives to Miami and BM cargo try to send it to the Dominican Republic.
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You may want to look up Retr0bright (spelled with a "zero") on Google. ;)
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Thanks ;D
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How do you guys clean your DS games? I'm reluctant to try, so any tips or advice would be great.
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I've actually never had to clean one, but I'd just use a Q-tip and isopropyl.
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I wish you take them apart, then I would have no drawbacks on taking them apart!
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Why would you want to take them apart?
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Easier to clean.
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The contacts are out in the open already. Can't get much easier to clean IMO.
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Going to be honest Wiggy, that was a bit of a shit comment, being neither here nor there really. :-\
The reason I want to be able to open the cartridge should have already been painfully evident for a self proclaimed clean freak, with a bad case of OCD. ::)
As with other carts, opening them makes them easier to clean, therefore more likely to receive a more thorough cleaning, and with the grooves and pins covering the contacts, dirt and dust could/can get caught underneath. With my games that is a non-issue, but with other peoples games, that is something to be concerned about, and considering I buy other peoples games, that's something I have to worry about...
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Huh?
Sorry man, I don't get what you're after. You wanna clean something that never needs to be cleaned? Cleaning the inside of a game that's sealed from the outside world makes no sense to me, and you can't expose the contacts any more than they already are.
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Cleaning the inside of a game that's sealed from the outside world makes no sense to me, and you can't expose the contacts any more than they already are.
Tell that to all of us who had dirty games in the 1980s, and experienced the NES' blinking light of death. :D
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Apples & oranges.
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The only real reason to open the game to clean it would be if the contacts were quite corroded and you need to take Brasso or steel wool to them. Otherwise I don't see the point.
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Huh?
Sorry man, I don't get what you're after. You wanna clean something that never needs to be cleaned? Cleaning the inside of a game that's sealed from the outside world makes no sense to me, and you can't expose the contacts any more than they already are.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqF3J8DpEb4
I'm not talking about the circuit board, I'm taking about the contact area. If you take a look at the contacts, you'll notice little black/dark grey pins running along side them, there not flush to the board so dirt can get stuck under them, and just below the contacts, there's little grooves that dirt can get into. I can't explain it any better than that to be honest man.
Fuck it, in all honesty it doesn't really matter, and I can't be bothered to explain it again, lol.
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I see what you're saying. The contacts aren't flush with the PCB so there are groves between each contact and crud could collect in there.
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I see what you're saying. The contacts aren't flush with the PCB so there are groves between each contact and crud could collect in there.
This. With the games I bought new, this is a non issue, but with second hand games, and non collectors generally being grimey bastards, when I buy second hand, this becomes a problem. Its the same reason we all take apart our carts to give them a thorough cleaning, and it just bugs me that I can't do that with DS cartridges.
Polygon gets me! I like Polygon, I'd buy you a pint bro!
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:D
Yeah, any used game I buy gets taken apart to be cleaned since I take Brasso to it regardless.
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Toothbrush.
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Toothbrush.
Not a bad suggestion.
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toothbrush here too, the way to go
i love that cleaning paste from nintendo repair shop as well
i think its watch cleaner, but im not sure
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Ok. So I got this in an ebay lot. $35 for 12 games. All working. Some are just really dirty, but I've been cleaning them up. I was getting started on this one....
(http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh334/cineman07/D2D71DC7-11C5-4AD8-BABE-8521E61F3BA6-2205-000000C851C3C7DE.jpg) (http://s544.photobucket.com/user/cineman07/media/D2D71DC7-11C5-4AD8-BABE-8521E61F3BA6-2205-000000C851C3C7DE.jpg.html)
Cleaned up a lot of the front and then flipped it over.
(http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh334/cineman07/479D6680-3B61-46DD-B5E6-9B4801639B99-2205-000000C861E00F01.jpg) (http://s544.photobucket.com/user/cineman07/media/479D6680-3B61-46DD-B5E6-9B4801639B99-2205-000000C861E00F01.jpg.html)
Missing the 2 bottom screws and the top/middle one looks like melted or something... Here's a close up:
(http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh334/cineman07/FCF2ADFE-C3C6-4861-BFEB-7CE4C0E1E518-2205-000000C872FF0B2D.jpg) (http://s544.photobucket.com/user/cineman07/media/FCF2ADFE-C3C6-4861-BFEB-7CE4C0E1E518-2205-000000C872FF0B2D.jpg.html)
Again, the game plays fine, but I'd like to clean it up and get the cart looking new again. So the good thing is the worst part is on the back shell and I could change it, but the bad thing is I don't know how exactly I'm going to open it up.
Should I just snap it off, given the bottom 2 screws are already out? I'm afraid of what damage I might do that way.
Once I get it open, I'll clean the connectors more and the inside of the plastic, then change the back shell. Of course I do still need to get my hands on a screw bit for these...
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Your probably need to scrap the back of that cart mate, if you want it to look like new.
I hate to say it, but if that cart is indeed melted in the center, then you'll only ever be able to use 2 screws, unless of course it hasn't done too much damage to the front, then you might be able to taper/thread whats left, just enough to get the third screw to just catch. It won't do much to hold the cart together, but its aesthetically pleasing to see the three screws. The hinges and two other screws will keep the game together.
If the cart is held together good and tight, you might need to drill out that hole mate.
To be honest man, if you are serious about getting the cart looking like new, get a donor cartridge first. Take the back and screws of the donor cart and use them for the Kid Icarus cart.
If your really not up for it mate, I say there's someone around here who would be willing to sort that out for you. I'd do it for you, but that would cost you a ton in shipping, as I live in Ireland.
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So what you need for this job.
Original Cart, Donor Cart, 3.8 security bit. Those are the three things you'll definitely need.
Then depending on damage to the front and depending how tight the back and front of the cart are stuck together, you might need a drill or something to break the seal, then a thread to taper the middle screw bit.
To clean the cart up, 91% isopropyl acohol or any ammonia based cleaning agent will do. To clean the contacts, depending on the degree of dirt/corrosion alcohol or an eraser might do, if it's particularly bad, then brasso.
Make sure to clean the back part of the donor cart as well.
Once everything's taken apart and clean, put the game back together.
But if you really stuck on how to do this mate, someone on here will be willing to do it for you. Like I said, I'm happy to do it, but I live in Ireland and shipping will probably be a bitch.
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Is the screw still in that center hole?
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It seems to be. The picture is pretty well focused so your guess is as good as mine. That's the only point that holds the cart together (it comes apart a little at the bottom if I pull, but the middle doesn't budge)
I have plenty of fairly clean (and non-valuable) games for donors, so that's no problem. The problem is how to get that screw out to open it up and discard the back. Not sure where to begin on that/what the best method would be.
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If the screws still in there, then don't use a drill. Try chipping the burnt bits away from the screw, like use a pocket knife to chip away at the burnt area until you expose the screw. Hell if your really want try using a dremel to cut around the screw, but for the love of God be careful...
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Yes, this is my concern. What is finer than a pocket knife, but just as sharp? Something like a tiny ice pick or something...
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Could try a 2mm flat head?
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I have a set of very small screwdrivers for eyeglassses, and they sometimes come in handy for stripped game screws.
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WAY easier solution.
Push the two tabs at the top of the cart that are attached to the back side of the shell IN until they snap. This should allow you to essentially unscrew the entire back half of the shell along with the screw that's embedded inside. Make sense? Grab hold of the front of the shell with one hand, the back with the other, and rotate the two as if you were opening a jar. You'll have to pry it apart slightly as you do so to clear the screw bosses and such, but it should work without having to dick around with a zillion tools.
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THERE'S an idea. I was fooling with it again last night. Couldn't chip away much of the damage around the center screw and I was pressing on the tabs. Didn't quite figure out that you could do that. Will give it a shot tonight. Thanks Wig!
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Just be careful not to break the latches.
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I thought about that. Probably why I was super careful when I was fooling with it last night. Good advice. Thanks.
I hope I can pry them out. Think I should lift up on the bottom while pushing it down?
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Just be careful not to break the latches.
They're on the back half of the shell, which he's replacing anyway, so I say just snap em clean off ;)
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Oh I thought you were talking about the thinner plastic part that holds the latches on the front half. That's what I'm afraid of snapping when I do this.
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Lemme snap a pic to give 100% clarification. Hang tight...
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Just be careful not to break the latches.
They're on the back half of the shell, which he's replacing anyway, so I say just snap em clean off ;)
Yeah, I got you. I just meant the little bits they hook onto on the front part of the cart. I just meant be careful not to damage those bits. :)
Sorry, I'm really tired today, so my descriptive typing is completely shot. I've only got about 2 hours sleep in the last 48 hours. I feel completely broken... I'm a pussy I know... LOL.
Oh I thought you were talking about the thinner plastic part that holds the latches on the front half. That's what I'm afraid of snapping when I do this.
This. This is what I meant. Just listen to Wiggy, and try not to break those little bits the latches latch onto on the front part.
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Got the tabs out, but now the bottom is so clamped tight that I can't turn it. I'm afraid to try and snap the tabs... don't have a tool to do it with precision, afraid I will scratch or dent the front of the cart. Any ideas on how to snap them? Or do I just need more brute strength to start turning this thing?
(http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh334/cineman07/D97E0E25-1FE5-4B4E-A310-C92237F5F3B1-4335-000001BED5D614BC.jpg) (http://s544.photobucket.com/user/cineman07/media/D97E0E25-1FE5-4B4E-A310-C92237F5F3B1-4335-000001BED5D614BC.jpg.html)
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Just be careful not to break the latches.
They're on the back half of the shell, which he's replacing anyway, so I say just snap em clean off ;)
Yeah, I got you. I just meant the little bits they hook onto on the front part of the cart. I just meant be careful not to damage those bits. :)
Sorry, I'm really tired today, so my descriptive typing is completely shot. I've only got about 2 hours sleep in the last 48 hours. I feel completely broken... I'm a pussy I know... LOL.
Oh I thought you were talking about the thinner plastic part that holds the latches on the front half. That's what I'm afraid of snapping when I do this.
This. This is what I meant. Just listen to Wiggy, and try not to break those little bits the latches latch onto on the front part.
It's a tough thing to explain, sleep or no.
Now go get some! That shit will fuck with your brain big time :(
Got the tabs out, but now the bottom is so clamped tight that I can't turn it. I'm afraid to try and snap the tabs... don't have a tool to do it with precision, afraid I will scratch or dent the front of the cart. Any ideas on how to snap them? Or do I just need more brute strength to start turning this thing?
(http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh334/cineman07/D97E0E25-1FE5-4B4fE-A310-C92237F5F3B1-4335-000001BED5D614BC.jpg) (http://s544.photobucket.com/user/cineman07/media/D97E0E25-1FE5-4B4E-A310-C92237F5F3B1-4335-000001BED5D614BC.jpg.html)
I'm gonna grab a crappy dupe and try this myself. I'll see if you really need to break those tabs or not. Will report back ASAP.
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Got the tabs out, but now the bottom is so clamped tight that I can't turn it. I'm afraid to try and snap the tabs... don't have a tool to do it with precision, afraid I will scratch or dent the front of the cart. Any ideas on how to snap them? Or do I just need more brute strength to start turning this thing?
(http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh334/cineman07/D97E0E25-1FE5-4B4E-A310-C92237F5F3B1-4335-000001BED5D614BC.jpg) (http://s544.photobucket.com/user/cineman07/media/D97E0E25-1FE5-4B4E-A310-C92237F5F3B1-4335-000001BED5D614BC.jpg.html)
The hardest part is done.
Hold the game the right way up, look at the back then try twist the back piece to the left, in an unscrew motion. If the back hasn't been melted onto the front, you might be able to just unscrew the entire back from the front. Once you have enough space to access the tabs properly, use some pliers to break them off, it would likely make the job a hell of a lot easier.
If you can't do that then I can't see any other way than putting a dremel to it, then using pliers to break the melted bit front the front, just enough to try and get the screw out. Off the top of my head, I can't remember which way the chips face. Do they face to the front or back of the cart? If they face the back of the cart, be really fucking careful with the dremel.
Once that screw is out your good. You could then go tidy any melted bits left over with a file, if it really bothers you, just be careful not to damage the thread or the screw won't go back in properly. Just literally a few runs over to make it look alright.
SIDE NOTE: Is it strange that I want a game with the same problem as your, so I can fix it?
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Haha! Not that strange. It's fun in it's own way to tinker. Wiggy definitely understands this.
I stopped when I got the tabs out last night because I thought if I started to turn it, the bottom would scratch the chip or something. It's very tight down there anyway. Hard to budge. Pliers are a good idea.
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Haha! Not that strange. It's fun in it's own way to tinker. Wiggy definitely understands this.
I stopped when I got the tabs out last night because I thought if I started to turn it, the bottom would scratch the chip or something. It's very tight down there anyway. Hard to budge. Pliers are a good idea.
The bottom is stuck down tight? You reckon whoever owned it before used super glue? Is there any give at the bottom of the cart at all? Try prying the top of the cart open a little bit, then use a torch and look inside. If you see any white shit, the idiot used some kind of glue.
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No I don't think it's glued. I'm just saying from prying open the top, the bottom is now tighter. I just stopped working on it because I thought when I started prying the bottom I might snap the top back in. Or worse, snap something else on the front or the chip. I think I have a pair of needle nose pliers at home, I'll try to snap those clips off tonight.
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Could just be from the pressure of the tabs being out. Like a see-saw affect. Pull one side up, the other side goes down further. Bar the screws there's nothing holding the bottom in place, and considering your cart is missing the bottom screws, then that's the only thing I imagine it could be. Try unscrewing the back of the cart like I said earlier. If it really can't move, then break those tabs off and try then.
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Just did it with an extra copy of SMB1 and it worked great. Just work on getting the PC board as soon as you can since it totally gets in the way. The cart shell will take flex a lot before it fails it would seem.
Also, this was inside of one of them.
(http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/wiggyx/null_zps9af1d49a.jpg~original)
WTF?! Bootleg SMB/DH? Gonna go see what this is all about...
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Just did it with an extra copy of SMB1 and it worked great. Just work on getting the PC board as soon as you can since it totally gets in the way. The cart shell will take flex a lot before it fails it would seem.
Also, this was inside of one of them.
(http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/wiggyx/null_zps9af1d49a.jpg~original)
WTF?! Bootleg SMB/DH? Gonna go see what this is all about...
LOL! That's pretty cool. The one on the left, the logo is slightly darker as well, or is that just the lighting?
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you might be suprised that those kind of chips are also in some copies of starfox..
i think it's official.
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Just did it with an extra copy of SMB1 and it worked great. Just work on getting the PC board as soon as you can since it totally gets in the way. The cart shell will take flex a lot before it fails it would seem.
Also, this was inside of one of them.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/wiggyx/null_zps9af1d49a.jpg~original
WTF?! Bootleg SMB/DH? Gonna go see what this is all about...
LOL! That's pretty cool. The one on the left, the logo is slightly darker as well, or is that just the lighting?
It's just the lighting. The carts and labels are super identical. I went over them both with a magnifying glass, seriously LOL!
you might be suprised that those kind of chips are also in some copies of starfox..
i think it's official.
It booted up SMB/DH just like any other SMB/DH cart. I was hoping for a 52-in-1 or something :( China outsource? Never knew about this sort of thing if it is indeed legit. May have to post on ol' Digipress to see what the folks over there know as well.
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That's funny.
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Just did it with an extra copy of SMB1 and it worked great. Just work on getting the PC board as soon as you can since it totally gets in the way. The cart shell will take flex a lot before it fails it would seem.
Also, this was inside of one of them.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/wiggyx/null_zps9af1d49a.jpg~original
WTF?! Bootleg SMB/DH? Gonna go see what this is all about...
LOL! That's pretty cool. The one on the left, the logo is slightly darker as well, or is that just the lighting?
It's just the lighting. The carts and labels are super identical. I went over them both with a magnifying glass, seriously LOL!
you might be suprised that those kind of chips are also in some copies of starfox..
i think it's official.
It booted up SMB/DH just like any other SMB/DH cart. I was hoping for a 52-in-1 or something :( China outsource? Never knew about this sort of thing if it is indeed legit. May have to post on ol' Digipress to see what the folks over there know as well.
I'm pretty sure it's official. I had a few SMB/DH carts that had the same type of board in them while I was doing the custom NES sets a while back. Had a SMB/DH game with each one so I went through about 20 or so of those carts and at least three had the boards like the left one. Thought it kinda strange, but they booted the same as the others and the three carts came from three different sources when I acquired them, so either it's legit or someone was making a bunch of bootleg SMB/DH carts.
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Maybe you cant cut or melt with a hot knife or a sharp metal the part where the melted screw is, just leaving 0.5 cm around that screw, that way you can take away the back part. Then with a plier you can turn the screw to take it out. That way you don't damage the front and can change the back part.
If some one post these forget that i mention it :P
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Maybe you cant cut or melt with a hot knife or a sharp metal the part where the melted screw is, just leaving 0.5 cm around that screw, that way you can take away the back part. Then with a plier you can turn the screw to take it out. That way you don't damage the front and can change the back part.
If some one post these forget that i mention it :P
We've mentioned something very similar. ;D
@Spoonman, how goes it buddy? Any progress?
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Had a busy weekend. Just now sitting at my desk to take another crack at it. Getting some pliers.... will post end result pics haha
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Opened it up and rattled the board out. Also snapped the clips off. Only been trying for 10 minutes or so but I can't get the darn thing to budge. Trying my best to lift up both sides so it can turn. I'm worried maybe it's really melted down in the middle....
(http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh334/cineman07/2250C063-1AE4-4C67-ADF2-347E3E5E31EA-7217-000002DCDB8ADCF3.jpg) (http://s544.photobucket.com/user/cineman07/media/2250C063-1AE4-4C67-ADF2-347E3E5E31EA-7217-000002DCDB8ADCF3.jpg.html)
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Do you have some dremel or a friend with one? Since you have the board out now, there's no need to worry about damaging the PCB and the cart is deep enough so there shouldn't be much risk with damaging the front, unless you have really shaky hands or press down to hard on the dremel (let the tool do the work!).
You could try snapping the back of the cart entirely? If you have a padded clamp, put it over the middle screw area then just pull the edges of the back off. If you have a clamp but it isn't padded then you could just use a towel, or an old t- shirt to prevent damaging the cart.
Hell if your really at wits end, you could try a saw. ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) (There is actually some logic in that last statement.)
Cut out a block of wood that will fit the contact area, not tight, just enough to stay in there, then get another piece of would small enough to fit in the gap at the top of the cart, between the front and back (A steel ruler will do as well!), then cut from top to bottom, on both sides of the screw. Once that's done, you can easily break the little bits left off. (See there was some *evil doctor-esque* logic there!).
A dremel is really your best bet now. Just cut around the screw and your home free! You can use a pair of pliers to crack the melted plastic around the screw off, then once your 3.8 secuirty bit has arrived, just unscrew the middle screw, put on new back (AFTER YOU CLEAN THE CONTACTS AND CART!), screw in the old screw and 2 new replacement screws and then your done!
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By the way!...
You might find that the threads are gone, and the screws are to loose. There is an easy fix to this, but it involves a match stick and a tiny dab of super glue.
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Mission accomplished! Just had to wrestle with it some more. Luckily didn't snap anything in the front half!
(http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh334/cineman07/99094BDB-156D-40FB-A09C-14DF642400E6-7324-000002EC0001F78B.jpg) (http://s544.photobucket.com/user/cineman07/media/99094BDB-156D-40FB-A09C-14DF642400E6-7324-000002EC0001F78B.jpg.html)
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Nice!
Now go clean it up, put it back together, and finally enjoy your Kid Icarus!
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Haha, a winner is you!
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I'm getting really tired of buying games listed as being professionally cleaned. Got a batch of games that weren't cleaned very well, not to mention a ton of the screws were stripped. >:(
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I'm getting really tired of buying games listed as being professionally cleaned. Got a batch of games that weren't cleaned very well, not to mention a ton of the screws were stripped. >:(
I know that feeling well. Can't even remember how many times I bought a game that was said to be fully cleaned and tested, only for it to have stripped screws, cracked shells, and filthy contacts. Thankfully, I've only ever two games that simply wouldn't work after I cleaned them. Still pretty annoying though.
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I'm getting really tired of buying games listed as being professionally cleaned. Got a batch of games that weren't cleaned very well, not to mention a ton of the screws were stripped. >:(
If you buy it in my country you always have to clean it.
I always buy on ebay or in a local store here in the Dominican Republic, and all the games that i buy in the local store i always have to clean them
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I'm getting really tired of buying games listed as being professionally cleaned. Got a batch of games that weren't cleaned very well, not to mention a ton of the screws were stripped. >:(
If you buy it in my country you always have to clean it.
I always buy on ebay or in a local store here in the Dominican Republic, and all the games that i buy in the local store i always have to clean them
on the outside are in excellent conditions but inside :'(
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I know that feeling well. Can't even remember how many times I bought a game that was said to be fully cleaned and tested, only for it to have stripped screws, cracked shells, and filthy contacts. Thankfully, I've only ever two games that simply wouldn't work after I cleaned them. Still pretty annoying though.
Yeah, I wish they would just leave well enough alone. They obviously opened it since they stripped out the screws. So what did they do in there? Just wipe the contacts with a wet rag? It's like the listings for NES toasters that have the 72 pin connector replaced. I'm just going to start avoiding them.
If you buy it in my country you always have to clean it.
I always buy on ebay or in a local store here in the Dominican Republic, and all the games that i buy in the local store i always have to clean them
That's just it. Before I add any game to my collection, I open it up and clean it properly. I'd just rather they leave it alone since I'm going to take care of it the right way anyhow, regardless of where I buy it as I assume they've been slowing on it and such.
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I'm getting really tired of buying games listed as being professionally cleaned. Got a batch of games that weren't cleaned very well, not to mention a ton of the screws were stripped. >:(
I fell your pain. I've never had stripped screws, but I bought a few NES games that where listed as cleaned and tested, when they finally arrived, popped them into my NES, which I cleaned thoroughly, and nothing. I blew into the contacts quickly and it worked but the picture was terrible. Took them apart and found grime and dirt caked onto the contacts. A quick hit of an eraser and WD40 and those things we're as clean as a whistle. They play the first time every time now.
I bought two Megadrive games that where listed as the same, cleaned and tested. When they arrived, there where white streaks all over the carts and PCB. I have no idea what it was, but with a quick wipe of some iso, the white streaks where gone.
I'll never understand why people don't look after their 40 - 60 Euro investments.
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I'm getting really tired of buying games listed as being professionally cleaned. Got a batch of games that weren't cleaned very well, not to mention a ton of the screws were stripped. >:(
I bought two Megadrive games that where listed as the same, cleaned and tested. When they arrived, there where white streaks all over the carts and PCB. I have no idea what it was, but with a quick wipe of some iso, the white streaks where gone.
I'll never understand why people don't look after their 40 - 60 Euro investments.
I'd imagine it's some sort of leaner or polish compound. I've seen that before as well. It just shows how lazy they are that they don't even bother to clean off the polish they used.
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seeing as how this is the cleaning thread i may as well ask this question here rather than starting another thread,
i have this metal plate which is covered in the remnants of a vinyl sticker, its really sticky horrrible stuff and i want to remove it before repainting, bearing in mind that i have access to industrial chemicals what chemicals would you recommend? also, i tried acetone with no effect
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I would try Goo Gone.
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@DrAgon: I use Lighter Fluid to remove sticker residue from all sorts of surfaces. It can and often does strip the color off painted or printed surfaces, but doesn't damage the actual plastic or metal. Since you mentioned repainting the piece anyway, I'd suggest trying that. The brand I use is Ronsonol and can be found in the checkout lane with the cigarettes at just about any Walmart.
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lacquer thinner
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Some people on a budget have achieved decent effects with the likes of peanut butter or cooking oil, then washing the rest off.
But if you have access to industrial level chemicals, then use any of the above mentioned products. Some people have used WD40 to great effect (which to be honest, with metal, might be a good combo).
I noticed another guy on youtube using a combination of goo gone and a penny to get some abrasive action going. Worked pretty well.
I personally use window cleaner, let it soak for 10 - 20 minutes and it usually just wipes right off. If that doesn't work, then I use the same process but using sunflower oil instead. I haven't found anything that either one hasn't worked on, non abrasive too!
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thanks for the ideas
might try some xylene or IPA, if that doesnt work i could try some 2-butoxy ethanol
if THAT doesnt work i'll move on to WD40
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lacquer thinner. Seriously.
It's metal. Do it.
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lacquer thinner. Seriously.
It's metal. Do it.
I missed the metal plate part. No question, go with the thinner.
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Wiggy is the cleaning guru. If he says do it, DO IT!
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looked up lacquer thinner on wikipedia where it says they use, among other things, aromatic hydrocarbons like Toluene
this led me to Xylene, which, coupled with some scraping, took that horrid stuff right off!
now its ready for priming and repainting!
thanks wiggy!
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Sweet! Do it to it!
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Ah thinner. Works many wonders especially letting you know if you have a cut somewhere on your hand lol. (Anybody who's worked on cars will know)
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Ah thinner. Works many wonders especially letting you know if you have a cut somewhere on your hand lol. (Anybody who's worked on cars will know)
Ah yes, I know that feeling. It's amazing how you can cut yourself while working on cars and never know it. At least until.....
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I bought Mortal Kombat trilogy for N64 and it has a sticky thing. i clean it up with alcohol and it looks clean but when i grab the cartidge it's still sticky.
How can i get rid of the invisible sticky thing?
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I bought Mortal Kombat trilogy for N64 and it has a sticky thing. i clean it up with alcohol and it looks clean but when i grab the cartidge it's still sticky.
How can i get rid of the invisible sticky thing?
Try using some window cleaner. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then wipe it off. It should get rid of it.
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I have a question about fixing scratches out of plastic. Years ago I bought an N64 and controllers from the local rental place when it got rid of the one they where using for rentals. Aside form the sticker they decided to scratch their address into the plastic of the controllers and the console. The scratches are pretty deep so I plan to sand the scratches out and then apply an automotive plastic polish. I may need more than one type of polish because the controllers are semi-translucent while the console is not. Does anyone have any tips or perhaps a better way? Or knows whether or not this will make things worse? Cause that would be something I would want to know before I go through with it.
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Use a rough grit sandpaper.
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I have a question about fixing scratches out of plastic. Years ago I bought an N64 and controllers from the local rental place when it got rid of the one they where using for rentals. Aside form the sticker they decided to scratch their address into the plastic of the controllers and the console. The scratches are pretty deep so I plan to sand the scratches out and then apply an automotive plastic polish. I may need more than one type of polish because the controllers are semi-translucent while the console is not. Does anyone have any tips or perhaps a better way? Or knows whether or not this will make things worse? Cause that would be something I would want to know before I go through with it.
Try Mr Clean Magic Eraser. It should get rid of any scuffs. Make sure to wet the eraser before hand, not soaking, just moist.
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...they decided to scratch their address into the plastic of the controllers and the console. The scratches are pretty deep...
Using a Magic Eraser will smooth out the texture on the plastic before you get rid of the scratches/etches, because I'm willing to bet that the scratched/etched address is deeper than the texture on the plastic.
If the scratches are deep enough that you feel your fingernail catch, you might want to just replace the shell, or see this as a chance to do a custom paint job.
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^^^ this.
Option 2: sand the controllers down through the scratches. Then sand blast the part with 60-100 grit sand on a pretty low presure (less than 30psi). This will do a pretty decent job of resorting the original textured finish, but obviously requires some equipment to do so.
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Painting them didn't even occur to me. That's a good idea thanks.
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So I've been testing Tarn-X like I said I would and I've gotta say that I'm blown away by its effectiveness without the need for any abrassive material and what seems to be ZERO damage to the metal pins (unlike what I'm hearing about Brasso).
I cleaned an SMB 3 last night that was seriously tarnished. Pins had a ton of black buildup and were really dull. A Q-tip and a few minutes with the Tarn-X and it looks damned near brand new. I'm gonna go ahead and soak the pins of a donor cart in the stuff for a few days to make sure that it doesn't have the ability to eat away at the pins. It does eat through zinc coating (the gold-ish looking coating on SNES and other cart screws) in about 2 seconds, which I found out while trying to use it to clean up some GBA system screws. Takes it down to the bare metal almost instantly.
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I bought Mortal Kombat trilogy for N64 and it has a sticky thing. i clean it up with alcohol and it looks clean but when i grab the cartidge it's still sticky.
How can i get rid of the invisible sticky thing?
Try using some window cleaner. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then wipe it off. It should get rid of it.
Thanks Dravenae, it did work, got rid of all that "invisible" sticky thing ;D
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I bought Mortal Kombat trilogy for N64 and it has a sticky thing. i clean it up with alcohol and it looks clean but when i grab the cartidge it's still sticky.
How can i get rid of the invisible sticky thing?
Try using some window cleaner. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then wipe it off. It should get rid of it.
Thanks Dravenae, it did work, got rid of all that "invisible" sticky thing ;D
Awesome! :)
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Hey guys, just wondering have any of you used the "credit card method" to clean your systems contacts? If any of you don't know what this method is, you take a credit card with out the indentations, put a microfiber towel around the card, soak a little bit of the microfiber towel in alcohol, then insert into cart reader until clean. I've been taking apart my old consoles lately, cleaning them up and such, so I would just like to know any good methods to clean the contacts.
This question seems a bit redundant consider I'm brave enough to complete strip down the consoles, yet I'm too much of a chicken shit to put anything other than a game into the cart reader! For shame. :-[
LOL!
Anyways, let us know if its safe to do so. If any of you have any other suggestions, let yourself be heard!
Thanks in advance guys.
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IMO, the best way to clean is to gut the cart. You can actually see what you're cleaning, it gives you more leverage, and takes all the guess work out if it.
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IMO, the best way to clean is to gut the cart. You can actually see what you're cleaning, it gives you more leverage, and takes all the guess work out if it.
No, not the cart. I'm good with that. What I actually meant was the pins inside the console. All my games are as clean as a whistle, I just want to make sure the pins inside my NES, SNES, N64, and Mega Drive's are all clean as well. I'll be replacing the 72 pin connector on my NES shortly, but with SNES, N64, and Mega Drives, it's not as simple as pulling it out and slapping the new pin connector in, so I want to know how you guys clean them. I'm tempted to try the credit card method (as discussed in my previous post), but I want to know what you guys think.
Also while on this topic, any suggestions on a new 72 pin connector for my PAL A NES? It's the first time I'll be replacing it, but I just want to make sure that I get decent one, so I'm hoping you guys know of a decent brand or seller/dealer.
Thanks in advance.
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Ah, my bad for not seeing that. Then I'll tell you what I told this guy:
http://www.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?168361-Drilling-out-SNES-screws-C-Black-screen-of-death
Here's what I use to clean cart connector pins. Works about 95% of the time.
http://www.crescentartists.com/artbo...tboard_ill.htm
Illustration board comes in quite a few thicknesses and can be cut down to little pieces that are the exact size of the cart connector that you're trying to clean. The usable surface side of the cold press board has a good amount of texture in it so it's quite effective for pulling crud and debris from the pins. You can even add a little isopropyl or other cleaner to the board if you like. Use it like any other cleaning kit, which is done by inserting the board into the port over and over again.
If that doesn't work, then the last ditch effort is to wrap a piece of 1500-2000 grit sandpaper around the board and give it 3-4 insertions into the cart port and then try a game. If still not working, then repeat. If still not working after 2-3 rounds, then you very likely have a different problem.
The only place you'll find a replacement SNES mini button is to scavenge it from another, unless you can find someone parting out SNES minis on eBay or the like.
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Ah, my bad for not seeing that. Then I'll tell you what I told this guy:
http://www.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?168361-Drilling-out-SNES-screws-C-Black-screen-of-death
Here's what I use to clean cart connector pins. Works about 95% of the time.
http://www.crescentartists.com/artbo...tboard_ill.htm
Illustration board comes in quite a few thicknesses and can be cut down to little pieces that are the exact size of the cart connector that you're trying to clean. The usable surface side of the cold press board has a good amount of texture in it so it's quite effective for pulling crud and debris from the pins. You can even add a little isopropyl or other cleaner to the board if you like. Use it like any other cleaning kit, which is done by inserting the board into the port over and over again.
If that doesn't work, then the last ditch effort is to wrap a piece of 1500-2000 grit sandpaper around the board and give it 3-4 insertions into the cart port and then try a game. If still not working, then repeat. If still not working after 2-3 rounds, then you very likely have a different problem.
The only place you'll find a replacement SNES mini button is to scavenge it from another, unless you can find someone parting out SNES minis on eBay or the like.
Cheers Wiggy! Fucking awesome reads! The consoles are working fine at the moment and run games first try. I just want to make sure they keep doing that! Thanks again man!
EDIT : Actually Wiggy, what is illustration board? What is it make out of? If I have the right thing is mind, its just like a really compact foam board. I googled it after reading this post, and it looks like card board.
This the right stuff?
http://www.davidadamsonline.com/fairy_art_1.htm
(the first image).
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Sorry for the late reply. It's not foam core, just pressed paper board. Solid through, not foam layered of corrugated :)
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Sorry for the late reply. It's not foam core, just pressed paper board. Solid through, not foam layered of corrugated :)
Cool. Cheers for that Wiggy. I shall try and get some next time I'm out. :)
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No prob! Works perfectly and a single sheet/board should last a freakin' decade LOL!
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Does anyone know where you can find replacement screws for N64 controllers?
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Does anyone know where you can find replacement screws for N64 controllers?
Hardware or computer stores i've bought my small screws.
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Does anyone know where you can find replacement screws for N64 controllers?
What Arseen said. :)
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Fucking GameStop stickers. It's not to bad when there plastered over the sleeve, I can deal with that. But when there on the fucking cover, that's a killer. I've been pretty lucky, but today, my luck ran dry.
I picked up a copy of Dead Space 2, and the cover out on the floor was in good shape (no stickers, etc). Went up to the lady, she took the case, put it to the side, then reached behind the counter and took out a game already in the case and complete(which in all honesty, I was pretty impressed with considering GS's usual policy).
I payed and left. Got home to find a fucking sticker on the fucking cover, not just the plastic sleeve, the actual fucking cover. >:(
Any tips? I've used the hair dryer method a few times for stickers on manuals. It didn't go as smoothly as hoped, but you can't really tell there was a sticker or really see where the damage is, but I know.
EDIT: Never mind. Got it off no problem. Stuck the cover under the lap top for a few minutes.
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I just made a couple of videos about cleaning contacts. It shows how I've cleaned all my games. I still need to do a video on how to clean the outside and remove stickers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGaG_quL33Q (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGaG_quL33Q)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D90GjgLk-U (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D90GjgLk-U)
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Some good tips there man, some redundant points, but overall good video man. Was a good watch. :)
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Some good tips there man, some redundant points, but overall good video man. Was a good watch. :)
:D
Yeah, I did notice that after watching back after editing. Thanks for the input.
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Hey guy, i don't know if one of you has told, made or try this.
I recently bought i nes game and it had some marker (don't know why people put their names on cartridges with markers, or make drawings >:( ), i try to remove it with windows/glass cleaner, but it didn't work as i expected, it was working but not to much, try alcohol and didn't work either. Then i sow a bottle of brasso that i have and try with that, it did work and the cartridge looks like new ;D
Hate when people do that with cartridges >:(
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Hey guy, i don't know if one of you has told, made or try this.
I recently bought i nes game and it had some marker (don't know why people put their names on cartridges with markers, or make drawings >:( ), i try to remove it with windows/glass cleaner, but it didn't work as i expected, it was working but not to much, try alcohol and didn't work either. Then i sow a bottle of brasso that i have and try with that, it did work and the cartridge looks like new ;D
Hate when people do that with cartridges >:(
Brasso, really? Could you see the spot afterwards where you had removed the marker? I ask because I usually use magic erasers but they're pretty abrasive and I've had them remove some of the texture from carts. I would love to have an alternative.
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Hey guy, i don't know if one of you has told, made or try this.
I recently bought i nes game and it had some marker (don't know why people put their names on cartridges with markers, or make drawings >:( ), i try to remove it with windows/glass cleaner, but it didn't work as i expected, it was working but not to much, try alcohol and didn't work either. Then i sow a bottle of brasso that i have and try with that, it did work and the cartridge looks like new ;D
Hate when people do that with cartridges >:(
Brasso, really? Could you see the spot afterwards where you had removed the marker? I ask because I usually use magic erasers but they're pretty abrasive and I've had them remove some of the texture from carts. I would love to have an alternative.
The The texture from the cart still there and it looks like the brasso didn't damage the texture, you don't need to clean it hard. after is clean i use the windows/glass cleaner to eliminate the residue of the brasso
Try it first if you have an old or broken cart and you'll see the results without damaging the ones that you want.
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Does anyone know where you can find replacement screws for N64 controllers?
Hardware or computer stores i've bought my small screws.
Tried every place in town I could think of, nothing. Probably going to have to go into Vancouver or something.
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Does anyone know where you can find replacement screws for N64 controllers?
Hardware or computer stores i've bought my small screws.
Tried every place in town I could think of, nothing. Probably going to have to go into Vancouver or something.
What happened to the original screws by the mate? Lost them when you took it apart, or just really badly rusted? Try a PC repair shop as well mate. Bring a sample screw with you. I doubt you'll have much luck*, but its worth a shot. They might just have a spare screw lying around, or at least a very similar sized screw. You could always used a smaller screw and use the match stick method, as a last resort.
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The The texture from the cart still there and it looks like the brasso didn't damage the texture, you don't need to clean it hard. after is clean i use the windows/glass cleaner to eliminate the residue of the brasso
Try it first if you have an old or broken cart and you'll see the results without damaging the ones that you want.
That's awesome! I'll have to actually pick up some Brasso and give it a shot. I've been using Magic Erasers, but they have a tendency to remove that texture. It will be great to have a less damaging option. I'll be making a video on cleaning the outside of games and getting stickers off and what not. This will help a lot. Thanks!
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I always had a problem with how Mega Drive games sat in a UGC. I recently came up with a solution that doesn't involved modding the case or gluing foam into the case, and it also add's an extra layer of protection to the game. A couple of days ago I got a few money bags from the bank to count up and bag all my loose change. I noticed that a Mega Drive game will probably fit into the bag perfectly. I had a few bags left over and decided to give it a shot. The bags worked perfectly, they weren't to tight, nor to loose. I used surgical tape (the only thing I had lying around) to seal the bags, put them back into the UGC, and the games now sit perfectly in the UGC. This makes me very happy. ;D
Some of you guys have probably already discovered this, but I thought I'd mention it in case there was anyone who hadn't.
The great thing about these money bags is that there completely free, or at least from my bank. :)
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Pics? What's a money bag ???
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Pics? What's a money bag ???
I'm not sure if this something that happens in America. I presume it does. Basically we have bags for loose change, and once you have either, €1 in 1 cents, €2 in 2 cents, €5 in 5 cents, €10 in either 10 or 20 cents, €25 in either 50 cents or €1, or €50 in €2, you can go to the bank with your bagged up change, and make a deposit into your account, or get the equivalent in cash. It's just a way of saving.
They are (roughly) 2.5/3 inch x 5 inch pouches. I'll get a photo up asap.
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American banks have crap customer support and many won't accept large amounts of change. You usually have to take your change to a sorting machine at a supermarket and pay a percentage for having it transferred into paper bills.
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They'll take it, but require that you put it all into rolls first.
I don't think we have bags like that. We have paper rolls instead :/
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Here's a pic of a game in a bag, and a picture of the actual bag. I just flipped the excess around the back and sealed it with tape.
(http://www.mediafire.com/convkey/1da5/bu43nxza6jfii0e6g.jpg) (http://www.mediafire.com/view/?bu43nxza6jfii0e)
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How do you guys go about cleaning your controllers? Specifically NES and SNES, and I want to clean up the grime down in the D-Pad. Do you open them up? Don't have one handy at the moment, but they look like they take a smaller phillips head. Anyway, what do you say?
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How do you guys go about cleaning your controllers? Specifically NES and SNES, and I want to clean up the grime down in the D-Pad. Do you open them up? Don't have one handy at the moment, but they look like they take a smaller phillips head. Anyway, what do you say?
Yep, open with small philips head and give the plastic parts good leaning in soap water.
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Both NES and SNES controllers use philips head screwdrivers as Arseen has said. I recently took apart all of my controllers to give them a good old cleaning. I just used warm water, washing up liquid, and an old tooth brush. They all came up like new. If you want to give them a shine, then WD40 is the way to go. Just make sure to give it a good wipe down after. I wouldn't recommend using WD40 on PS3 controllers, I think Sony used a different material as opposed to PS1 and PS2 controllers, apparently it doesn't react well to the WD40, but everything else is good. To clean the tracks on the PCB (if dirty) use Isopropyl Alcohol 99%, if the PCB is dusty, just use canned air.
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Thanks! ;D Gonna try to clean some up this weekend.
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Why anyone uses WD40 as a cleaning agent is beyond me. It's a lubricant and moisture repellent (in fact, the WD stands for "water displacement"). The fact that it's reacting with some parts is reason enough to drop the habit.
Anyway, take apart, scrub with toothbrush and household cleaner of choice.
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Why anyone uses WD40 as a cleaning agent is beyond me. It's a lubricant and moisture repellent (in fact, the WD stands for "water displacement"). The fact that it's reacting with some parts is reason enough to drop the habit.
Anyway, take apart, scrub with toothbrush and household cleaner of choice.
WD40 was developed primarily for water displacement in rockets/planes, to prevent ice formations, hence all connections in the circuitry are solder-less. It took them 39 tries to get the solvent just right, and on the 40th attempt, they did so, and Water Displacement 40th Formula (WD40) was "born". The fact that WD40 can be used as a lubricant is just a by-product, which its marketing relies only heavily today.
I never specifically said to use WD40 to clean the controllers. I said use WD40 to bring back its "like new" shine (in less words), only once he has cleaned the controller with warm water, washing up liquid, and a tooth brush. The only reason why I told him not to use WD40 on PS3 controllers (or any controller that is semi-transparent) because they are made with polycarbonate plastic. If you read WD40's FaQ, it will tell you;
Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40.
There is another product out there that gives just as good results, but I can't remember the name off of the top of my head (will take a look for it later).
Here's a video to give you a brief idea of what I actually meant.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XF3S8oredDk
EDIT: Also, like Isopropyl Alcohol, WD40 is made with a solvent which has low conductivity, so using it to clean metal contacts, as suggested by the WD40 FaQ, is fine. The solvent WD40 is a petroleum based solvent.
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ALL PS controllers are made from ABS. NONE are made from PC.
Also, why do you want them shiny? They don't come that way ???
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Also, why do you want them shiny? They don't come that way ???
The real question is, why don't YOU want them shiny?! ??? :o ??? ::)
It doesn't matter why I want them to have a like new shine. Its just my preference. All the consoles or controllers I have ever bought new have always had a certain shine to them.
I can't help but wonder, did you even read my entire post or look at the video I linked? If not, then well how can you have any idea of what I actually mean? ::)
Anyways, back to original topic. If you want to clean your controller use warm water, dish soap/washing up liquid, and a tooth brush. If the tracks under the buttons are dirty, use isopropyl alcohol (99%) and a cotton bud/q-tips.
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The real question is, why don't YOU want them shiny?! ??? :o ??? ::)
It doesn't matter why I want them to have a like new shine. Its just my preference. All the consoles or controllers I have ever bought new have always had a certain shine to them.
I can't help but wonder, did you even read my entire post or look at the video I linked? If not, then well how can you have any idea of what I actually mean? ::)
I already explained why I don't.
I did read it (strike through serves illustrate portions that aren't pertinent to my question/statement)
WD40 was developed primarily for water displacement in rockets/planes, to prevent ice formations, hence all connections in the circuitry are solder-less. It took them 39 tries to get the solvent just right, and on the 40th attempt, they did so, and Water Displacement 40th Formula (WD40) was "born". The fact that WD40 can be used as a lubricant is just a by-product, which its marketing relies only heavily today.
I never specifically said to use WD40 to clean the controllers.I said use WD40 to bring back its "like new" shine (in less words), only once he has cleaned the controller with warm water, washing up liquid, and a tooth brush. The only reason why I told him not to use WD40 on PS3 controllers (or any controller that is semi-transparent) because they are made with polycarbonate plastic. If you read WD40's FaQ, it will tell you;
Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40.
There is another product out there that gives just as good results, but I can't remember the name off of the top of my head (will take a look for it later).
Here's a video to give you a brief idea of what I actually meant.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XF3S8oredDk
EDIT: Also, like Isopropyl Alcohol, WD40 is made with a solvent which has low conductivity, so using it to clean metal contacts, as suggested by the WD40 FaQ, is fine. The solvent WD40 is a petroleum based solvent.
I was only questioning why people use it for this application. Nothing else in that post helps to answer that question :-\
The video just shows a guy wiping down a console with WD-40 to make it shiny (which I've actually seen before). I understood your application of the product after reading the the highlighted bit of your post above. Not sure what makes you think that I still don't get what the outcome is ??? I just wonder why you want that effect. It was a legitimate question. I wasn't trying to give you a hard time.
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I just wonder why you want that effect. It was a legitimate question. I wasn't trying to give you a hard time.
Fair enough. I apologize for my brashness in that case. Through the ambiguity of text, I guess I picked up your question wrong, or felt as though I didn't have to justify my decision. It came across as a redundant, argumentative question. I sincerely apologize if that wasn't the case.
I want that effect because its aesthetically pleasing to my eye. It brings the consoles/controllers back to life, and makes them look new. I also don't appreciate the matte look the consoles/controllers have once they have been dried after being cleaned.
I just want to say that I don't do this to any consoles/controllers that aren't a darker colour, or consoles/controllers that are transparent, because unlike the darker consoles/controllers, it adds nothing to them.
Just out of interest Wiggy, not to be argumentative or smart, but have you tried doing it? You might like the result. :)
To iterate, I wouldn't suggest doing this to a console/controller that is either transparent or light in colour, it genuinely add's nothing to the finish, bar a slight sheen.
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Fair enough.
No, I haven't, but I don't really have any desire to put something that's oil-based on my systems/controllers and then leave it there. It's not that I'm worried that it'll damage the plastic parts so much as it would just irk me to know that the parts are "greasy", for lack of a better term. It reminds me of dashboard conditioner or tire shine (neither of which I like). I just really don't like things to have a sheen on them like that, especially if that's not how the product was made to look, and I'm not fond of the idea of using a product that stays on the part(s).
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That's fair enough man.
For what its worth, I have never noticed any oily or greasy feeling when using the controllers or when touching the consoles. After I apply a coat of WD40 I always give it a thorough wipe down after, to the extent I use q-tips to get into the vents and what have you. Perhaps that's why I never notice it. I would never dream of applying a coat of WD40 and leaving it to air dry, I always give it a thorough wipe down after.
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Open up my Krion Conquest to clean it (and because it was rattling)
Find this:
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3804/9474409152_3c292b91e3_z.jpg)
::)
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Well? Did you? And was it?
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It's a shame the front of the cart is damaged. :(
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I didn't see this posted so I figure I'll put in my two cents.
For contact cleaning and cartridge slots I use DeoxIT (http://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT-25cc-Precision-Dispenser-100%25/dp/B0000YH6F8). One of my buddies is a radio engineer and he swears by the stuff for anything metal on metal. It's a little pricey but a very thin coat of the stuff works wonders, only thing you need extra is a qtip to wipe away the excess.
As far as other methods of cleaning I've seen these mentioned but it doesn't hurt to mention it again.
99% isopropyl alcohol for contact cleaning, though I have a hard time finding this stuff. I prefer DeoxIT.
Mr Clean Magic Eraser for removing marker and some discoloring.
Goo Gone for sticker residue, just be careful around the label.
Windex and elbow grease for general cleaning of carts and consoles.
I've also heard good things about Retrobrite for discoloring, especially for a yellow SNES, but that stuff looks pretty intense.
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99% ISO is pretty much impossible to find retail and it's not worth it anyway. 91% is more than good for the job :)
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I finally got around to installing the clear housing on a PS1 that I picked up at a pawn store. The previous owner must have been a fucking slob. The inside was full of pet hair and a lot of the metal that encases the motherboard was rusted from moisture exposure. I cleaned it up as best I could, but thankfully the new housing is cloudy so it doesn't look too shaby.
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I use Brasso to clean the contacts and after that use 70% Iso, i watch that on a video in youtube, i want to know if 70% iso is good after cleaning with brasso?
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ArsTechnica had an article on how to clean cartridges recently: http://arstechnica.com/gaming/2013/08/the-cheap-easy-way-to-make-those-old-game-cartridges-as-good-as-new/
They recommend using iso alcohol higher than 50% to clean it up and then a dry q-tip to clean off any excess after that.
The only thing I'm worried about with 70% iso in general is long term. I've heard some things about that 70% iso isn't pure enough and may cause damage long term, some people opt to use Windex or some kind of window cleaner instead because the % of pure cleaner is higher. I don't know how Windex would work with brasso though.
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So, higher better, but 70% iso isn't bad, much better 90%
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ArsTechnica had an article on how to clean cartridges recently: http://arstechnica.com/gaming/2013/08/the-cheap-easy-way-to-make-those-old-game-cartridges-as-good-as-new/
Thanks for the link. A little bit of video goes a long way.
I am so not loking forward to cleaning all of my carts. :P
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So, higher better, but 70% iso isn't bad, much better 90%
70% is fine. The other 30% is only distilled water, so just make sure it's dry when you're done.
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Thanks, afte cleaning the board i always let them near to a window for 10 min and after that always clean them with a dry old cloth or paper towel to make sure they are dry
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You know I've been wondering something. I don't think I've ever heard anyone mention using something like Di-Electric Grease on cart contacts. Is that doable? Think it would help in the long run? (preventing oxidation, repelling moisture, etc)
Might grab some to screw with. Was just wondering if anyone else had any thoughts on it
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never heard of it, what is it used for normally?
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You know I've been wondering something. I don't think I've ever heard anyone mention using something like Di-Electric Grease on cart contacts. Is that doable? Think it would help in the long run? (preventing oxidation, repelling moisture, etc)
Might grab some to screw with. Was just wondering if anyone else had any thoughts on it
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease#Dielectric_grease
It doesn't sound like a great idea. Why not try WD40, if your looking for something to displacement/repel water? By reading that wiki page, it sounds like your talking about a paste, rather than a solvent?
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyphenyl_Ether#Electronic_connector_lubricants (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyphenyl_Ether#Electronic_connector_lubricants)
this sounds more like what your thinking of, how well it would work with cart connectors i dont know
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As a sealant around electrical contacts[edit source | editbeta]
Dielectric grease[edit source | editbeta]
Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.
A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid galvanic corrosion.
Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low. Products designed as electronic connector lubricants, on the other hand, should be applied to such connector contacts and can dramatically extend their useful life. Polyphenyl Ether, rather than silicone grease, is the active ingredient in some such connector lubricants.
Silicone grease should not be applied to (or next to) any switch contact that might experience arcing, as silicone can convert to silicon-carbide under arcing conditions, and accumulation of the silicon-carbide can cause the contacts to prematurely fail. (British Telecom had this problem in the 1970s when silicone Symel® sleeving was used in telephone exchanges. Vapour from the sleeving migrated to relay contacts and the resultant silicon-carbide caused intermittent connection.)
That's from the wiki page I linked. Is that the same stuff your on about?
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There's a wide range of different products I looked at online.
Everyone talks about best ways to clean carts but not how to preserve the contacts over a long period of time.
I also wonder if an effective product was found if it wouldn't also help make a good connection when playing
like some rough carts I've owned, no matter how polished those contacts are, the game wont work unless you blow on it.
When we were kids people would also lick the contacts. I assume the moisture was helping to make a better connection
I've worked with di-electric grease before, I worked in a factory assembling truck cargo bodies (wiring lights, back up cameras, etc)
So the idea has popped into my head a few times.
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never heard of it, what is it used for normally?
It's used for electrical connections under the hood of cars. It's designed to keep out water while being conductive.
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Don't use it. You're more likely to cause a short than anything. It's quite viscous and would be really hard to keep it only on the pins so as to not create an electrical bridge between pads.
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I know I'm digging up a super old thread here. But so much of the information on this post is helpful.
I couldn't find if there was a thread more specific to label cleaning. For NES and SNES I'll often use a tiny dab of goo gone on a q-tip to get any grime or sticker residue off - and it also shines up the whole label.
My question is if anyone has any tips on N64 label cleaning. Those labels do not have the same strong laminate as the NES and SNES and I have definitely rubbed color off of Mario's nose in the past. So I want to be careful before cleaning some recent pickups. Any tips or advice would be much appreciated!
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I know I'm digging up a super old thread here. But so much of the information on this post is helpful.
I couldn't find if there was a thread more specific to label cleaning. For NES and SNES I'll often use a tiny dab of goo gone on a q-tip to get any grime or sticker residue off - and it also shines up the whole label.
My question is if anyone has any tips on N64 label cleaning. Those labels do not have the same strong laminate as the NES and SNES and I have definitely rubbed color off of Mario's nose in the past. So I want to be careful before cleaning some recent pickups. Any tips or advice would be much appreciated!
Bestine/Heptane, period.
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I know I'm digging up a super old thread here. But so much of the information on this post is helpful.
I couldn't find if there was a thread more specific to label cleaning. For NES and SNES I'll often use a tiny dab of goo gone on a q-tip to get any grime or sticker residue off - and it also shines up the whole label.
My question is if anyone has any tips on N64 label cleaning. Those labels do not have the same strong laminate as the NES and SNES and I have definitely rubbed color off of Mario's nose in the past. So I want to be careful before cleaning some recent pickups. Any tips or advice would be much appreciated!
Bestine/Heptane, period.
OK so I definitely trust Wiggy without question, but can we get a tutorial from you on this please?
When I start to get chemical near n64 labels, I get scared.
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You know I've been wondering something. I don't think I've ever heard anyone mention using something like Di-Electric Grease on cart contacts. Is that doable? Think it would help in the long run? (preventing oxidation, repelling moisture, etc)
Might grab some to screw with. Was just wondering if anyone else had any thoughts on it
Apparently, applying this to the cart slots on the Retron 5 help with the death grip it has on carts.
https://www.reddit.com/r/retron5/comments/6vyqco/retron_5_survival_guide/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/retron5/comments/6vyqco/retron_5_survival_guide/)
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I know I'm digging up a super old thread here. But so much of the information on this post is helpful.
I couldn't find if there was a thread more specific to label cleaning. For NES and SNES I'll often use a tiny dab of goo gone on a q-tip to get any grime or sticker residue off - and it also shines up the whole label.
My question is if anyone has any tips on N64 label cleaning. Those labels do not have the same strong laminate as the NES and SNES and I have definitely rubbed color off of Mario's nose in the past. So I want to be careful before cleaning some recent pickups. Any tips or advice would be much appreciated!
Bestine/Heptane, period.
OK so I definitely trust Wiggy without question, but can we get a tutorial from you on this please?
When I start to get chemical near n64 labels, I get scared.
Apply it to a q-tip, wipe on, wipe off.
Somewhere on YouTube I have a video that shows bedtime versus isopropyl on an N64 label...
Found it
https://youtu.be/IGE0Vb8IFuQ
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I know I'm digging up a super old thread here. But so much of the information on this post is helpful.
I couldn't find if there was a thread more specific to label cleaning. For NES and SNES I'll often use a tiny dab of goo gone on a q-tip to get any grime or sticker residue off - and it also shines up the whole label.
My question is if anyone has any tips on N64 label cleaning. Those labels do not have the same strong laminate as the NES and SNES and I have definitely rubbed color off of Mario's nose in the past. So I want to be careful before cleaning some recent pickups. Any tips or advice would be much appreciated!
Bestine/Heptane, period.
OK so I definitely trust Wiggy without question, but can we get a tutorial from you on this please?
When I start to get chemical near n64 labels, I get scared.
Apply it to a q-tip, wipe on, wipe off.
Somewhere on YouTube I have a video that shows bedtime versus isopropyl on an N64 label...
Found it
https://youtu.be/IGE0Vb8IFuQ
Thanks Wiggy