The Cover Project
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: akuma632 on March 19, 2012, 09:45:51 PM
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I have run in to a small issue with having so many retro game systems plugged in to my TV, I don't have as many AV inputs as I need. I was looking online for a good AV selector for my cables but I have not found a decent one yet. So I was wondering if there was any people would suggest to pick up? ???
Thanks for the help!
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Radio Shack Switch Box: Model 15-1985 -- I use two of these, they are auto-sensing so all you do is turn on your console and it automatically knows which one you have on. No need to constantly press buttons ;D You can plug 5 composite consoles into it!
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how many consoles do you want hooked up at one time?
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Radio Shack Switch Box: Model 15-1985 -- I use two of these, they are auto-sensing so all you do is turn on your console and it automatically knows which one you have on. No need to constantly press buttons ;D You can plug 5 composite consoles into it!
These things can give you some video issues, ghosting etc. I had one and had problems like that.
You could always daisy chain regular 4 input switchboxes.
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I solved this problem by getting some nice quality cables and couplers for the main inputs to my tv. Then cleanly leading towards my console rack. Whenever i feel the need to play 1team of consoles i just grab the cable/coupler combo, plug in and play.
This way you get no video distortion from those little boxes. Except hdmi i have a 3-1splitter for that.
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At one point i had all 16 of my consoles hooked up at once and used two of these
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd83/soundwave925/BVbnJg2kKGrHgoH-DEEjlLl1e6UBKSWgFvM4Q_1.jpg)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Video-Audio-RCA-AV-Switch-8-ways-Selector-Splitter-2-output-manual-switch-s82va-/220964998073?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33728a4bb9#ht_2895wt_1202
they work perfectly and theres no need to plug them in.
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(http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/8180/homersimpson50.gif)
"No s-video???"
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it would be nice but i can live without it. i dont want to pay the prices to get most of my systems moded for s-video, nor would i want them to be moded.
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One trick I've learned - if you have a component and a composite device, and you have a switch box that lets you hook up either a component or composite device into one switch, get the RCA Y cables for the audio and put both devices onto one button.
I'm sure I lose some video quality in my set up, but it works very well. Except that my wife doesn't like it because she can't figure any of it out. :D
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Here's what not to pick.
(http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/7091/switchesv.jpg)
These 2 I used to use.
The one on the left would be good if the switches didn't break after a couple of presses.
The one on the right got the 2 stars because 1. It does its job 2.S-video. Other than that...absolute crap. Kills colors and creates some notable horizontal feedbackish lines.
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it would be nice but i can live without it. i dont want to pay the prices to get most of my systems moded for s-video, nor would i want them to be moded.
the vast majority of systems have s-video without modding required
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it would be nice but i can live without it. i dont want to pay the prices to get most of my systems moded for s-video, nor would i want them to be moded.
the vast majority of systems have s-video without modding required
While true, are there a lot of systems that have S-Video without a better, more reasonable alternative?
Thinking Nintendo-wise, neither the NES or Top Loader support S-Video. The SNES does, but the SNES-mini does not. The N64 does. The Game Cube does, but the Gen1 versions also support component. Wii has component... is there an s-video cable for the Wii? Basically 2/5 generations of Nintendo systems support S-Video and nothing better... what do the other systems look like?
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Gamecube component requires a cable that costs nearly $70 used. If you're really willing to throw down that sort of cash for video quality, you shouldn't have a problem with modding where possible.
Anyhow uh...
Genesis and Master System don't support S-Video without modding, Saturn supports s-video fine. Dreamcast supports s-video, but from what I've gathered finding a cable that's actually wired up correctly is kind of a pain. You can just use VGA with Dreamcast anyhow.
Playstation 1, 2, and 3 all support s-video, 2 can use component, 3 can use HDMI.
Xbox and Xbox 360 both support s-video I think, but either can use component anyway.
The point is, you can use s-video for the majority of these, whether there's a better quality alternative for many of them is kind of pointless because I never claimed otherwise.
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it would be nice but i can live without it. i dont want to pay the prices to get most of my systems moded for s-video, nor would i want them to be moded.
the vast majority of systems have s-video without modding required
While true, are there a lot of systems that have S-Video without a better, more reasonable alternative?
Thinking Nintendo-wise, neither the NES or Top Loader support S-Video. The SNES does, but the SNES-mini does not. The N64 does. The Game Cube does, but the Gen1 versions also support component. Wii has component... is there an s-video cable for the Wii? Basically 2/5 generations of Nintendo systems support S-Video and nothing better... what do the other systems look like?
Well, there's always RGB which is much better than S-Video. NES sadly you have to do a lot of modification to get it to do RGB. SNES is RGB native, SNES Mini is a simple RGB mod, N64 early versions are simple RGB, and most Gamecubes except the last revision are either component NTSC (very expensive cable) or I believe PAL has RGB out.
Genesis can't do component natively, but since it's RGB native, you can use a SCART RGB to YUV for component.
Master System, Jaguar, Saturn, PS1 all RGB native.
PS2 is either component or RGB, you have the option in the menu on which you want to output.
Dreamcast is VGA and stunning on both a VGA CRT and modern LCDs
Xbox is Component native.
PS3,360 are component native with HDMI and can run S-Video as well.
Wii is component native and can run S-Video.
Granted RGB costs abit more with cables and transcoders but if you have a CRT with an RGB, VGA or low res YUV input it's worth it.
Ask for S-Video, it's more suited for non RGB consoles like an Atari 7800 which I would rather modify than an original 2600. Granted if you have S-Video it's much better than composite but if you're gonna go through the trouble of getting cables for all the consoles might as well go with the best picture for each system RGB.
Of course, there's always good oh composite that's still better than RF, as long as you have a good POWERED switch box so you don't lose any signal. The one I used for years before I upgraded everything to RGB was this one:
http://www.amazon.com/RCA-CRF940-Modulator-Gold-Plated-Connectors/dp/B00008X5DD/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1332304753&sr=8-10 (http://www.amazon.com/RCA-CRF940-Modulator-Gold-Plated-Connectors/dp/B00008X5DD/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1332304753&sr=8-10)
It keeps the composite signal nice and bright and even outputs a nice RF signal. S-Video however it kind of sucks on that particular one.
If you want everything to be simple, run either composite or S-video on most everything. If you want to spend the time and money for the best picture with only a few mods here and there, then RGB and component are your best choices.
For a CRT, Composite, S-Video and RGB will be your choices since CRT's can display all of them rather well.
For modern LCD's LED's Plasma, especially for older game systems, RGB is a must, S-video is a good second, but RGB will yield the best picture. Of course for modern game systems HDMI or component. Composite looks horrible on modern TV's.
Otherwise, daisychain some RF switchboxes, which will look horrible but it's the simplest and cheapest way to hook up multiple consoles.
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Gamecube component requires a cable that costs nearly $70 used. If you're really willing to throw down that sort of cash for video quality, you shouldn't have a problem with modding where possible.
Expensive, true... but if you were speedy, you would have gotten them during the brief period GameStop was selling them for $5 each and actually had them in stock. That's how I got four of my five sets. :D
The point is, you can use s-video for the majority of these, whether there's a better quality alternative for many of them is kind of pointless because I never claimed otherwise.
I didn't mean to imply that you had, I was just saying if you're worried about getting the best video quality, there's not a lot going for s-video.
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N64 early versions are simple RGB
It requires a mod. Not a SUPER difficult mod, but there's a lot of different ways to go about it with varying results. I did one but I want to re-do it sometime. There's actually a mod you can do for the later models, but it's completely ridiculous.
Nice rule of thumb for RGB modding N64: If the serial number on the bottom starts with NS1, you're in good shape.
If you also really really want RGB on one of the later, colored n64 models, it's very easy to just swap the guts out with an older model.
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I have six consoles hooked up to the single composite input on my TV using two of these daisy chained together.
(http://www.digicircle.com/images/product_image/RadioShack15-313%204-Way%20AV%20Selector%20Switch.gif)
I got them at RadioShack awhile ago. I think they were $20 each. I don't know how good they are compared to anything else, but I haven't noticed any problems. I'm sure I'm not getting the best possible picture quality out of my games, but I feel it's worth it for the convenience of not needing to screw around with wires.
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^^^ Ick + daisy chaining 2 = double ick.
I would NEVER use a Radio Shack branded product. Not to be a snob about it, but their stuff is pretty much the cheapest of the cheap Chinese crap (no offense intended).
With switch boxes, like MANY other products, you get what you pay for. Now, that's not to say that you should spend hundreds of dollars on one, but I wouldn't skimp on this sort of thing unless you absolutely don't care about picture quality.
As far as HDMI switch boxes go, if they work, they work, it they don't, they don't. Signal degradation is almost a non-issue. If you do run into degradation it'll be incredibly obvious (image dropout, "sparkles" in the image, that crummy super-compressed MPEG look, etc), so there's really no guessing as to whether your cables/switches are working to their potential or not. HDMI is the only A/V format that I buy cheap-ass cables for and have had zero issues with, ever.
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on the other hand, it's kinda hard to fuck up a switchbox
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Best place for switches (in the US anyway) is monoprice.com
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on the other hand, it's kinda hard to fuck up a switchbox
You'd like to think so, but that's not the case at all. I've run into many, MANY shitty switch boxes in my life. IMO, any that have the push button mechanism are crap, versus the boxes that detect signal and switch on their own.
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on the other hand, it's kinda hard to fuck up a switchbox
You'd like to think so, but that's not the case at all. I've run into many, MANY shitty switch boxes in my life. IMO, any that have the push button mechanism are crap, versus the boxes that detect signal and switch on their own.
Funny, I've always been told that nearly any auto-switch are going to be crap, while the mechanical ones tend to be more reliable and degrade the signal less...
Best place for switches (in the US anyway) is monoprice.com
That's the best place for anything ever.
Even their friggin' DRAWING TABLETS are insanely nice for the price they charge.
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Best place for switches (in the US anyway) is monoprice.com
For switches? They only carry digital signal switches, nothing analogue (at least I can't find anything analogue on the site).
Funny, I've always been told that nearly any auto-switch are going to be crap, while the mechanical ones tend to be more reliable and degrade the signal less...
Well, I'm going by my personal experience and not what someone else has told me.
Electronic switches don't rely on a contact surface that experiences wear/abrasion/friction over and over like a mechanical switch. I've had MANY mechanical switches dating back to the 80's which have eventually failed for one reason or another. I've had 2 electronic switches that never gave me a single issue. 1 I sold because I didn't (think) I needed it anymore, and the other has found a home in a close friend's house who has been using it for about 2 years without issue (after I owned and used it for about 2 years as well).
Zero moving parts = less likely-hood of breaking as far as I've experienced. This is also a big part of why my SNES that I bought in '91 still works, while I've had no less than 5 different PS1s, 3 Dreamcasts, 2PS2s, and 2 Xbox 360s.
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But the SNES has a sliding power button, that's a moving part ;)
5 Ps1s? I can believe it. I've probably ran across more broken, worn out, or just plain not working as well as they should Ps1s than any other console ever.
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But the SNES has a sliding power button, that's a moving part ;)
I was gonna say that but then realized he probably has a SNES for each game and keeps them running 24/7 (this also prevents wear on the cart connector).
He simply plugs in the console that the game he wants to play is in.
He probably dioes this with Wii too, as that's the most logical explanation of havihg 56 iof them. ;D
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Wiggy, I totally agree with you about Radio Shack - I've bought several pieces of electronics from them that flat out didn't work. That being said, I do have that av selector and it's a nice exception. I couldn't find any other good selectors locally on short notice, so I went with that, and it's actually worked just fine for nearly a year now.
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I have a black version of this thing: http://www.tori.fi/uusimaa/Joytech_AV_Control_Center_RGB_Scart_kytkin_3202000.htm
Picked it up for $40, absolutely love it.
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But the SNES has a sliding power button, that's a moving part ;)
5 Ps1s? I can believe it. I've probably ran across more broken, worn out, or just plain not working as well as they should Ps1s than any other console ever.
Well, the parts that do wear the most on cart-based systems are the ones that get touched. The cartridge ports on pretty much every cart system are the first to go, and the input/output ports are often next (since things are often plugged and unplugged many times over the life of the console). The power switch on the SNES is about as hearty as they come. I've got one around here somewhere. I'll have to snap a pic of it. It's about as beefy as an AC power switch :o
The 1001 PS1s ALL wore out at some point. The worm gear on the CD drive was made of some plastic that was too soft for the purpose. It wears out, and the drive can no longer move. You can always tell when that's the problem because you could turn the system on its side or upside-down and it would work because the weight from the drive was placed on a non-worn area of the gear.
I haven't seen a working 1001 with an OEM drive working in well over 10 years. I went through 3 of those. I damn near had the Sony customer service memorized by the time they finally sent me a 5000 series.
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you could always build your own box, prices should be pretty cheap, and if anything goes wrong with it youd know how to fix it!,
this is what id have to do, since no one box would handle 25 inputs!
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So you're gonna build a 25 position switch?
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So you're gonna build a 25 position switch?
lol, i wish!, i'd have 25 individual switches, in theory you'd only have to have them on the video lines, so that shouldn't be too hard,
also it'd probably be super wide, so id have to do some re-arranging of my stuff.
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Well, in theory you don't need a switch at all. I would probably just daisy chain a series of 25 inputs with and one output using diodes on the inputs so that signal doesn't find its way back to other consoles, which may or may not cause problems. But, better safe than sorry.
That way you just flip on the console you want and it comes on without having to label 25 switches. Just don't turn on 2 at the same time LOL!
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Well, in theory you don't need a switch at all. I would probably just daisy chain a series of 25 inputs with and one output using diodes on the inputs so that signal doesn't find its way back to other consoles, which may or may not cause problems. But, better safe than sorry.
That way you just flip on the console you want and it comes on without having to label 25 switches. Just don't turn on 2 at the same time LOL!
ive never had any luck with anything other then connectors and switches, so id rather go with those.
currently im using a couple of boxes that use switches, so flipping a switch to select which console to use isnt a problem, however if you could do a little test with a couple of pictures, i might be persuaded to try it out.
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I don't have materials on hand to make a sample and I'm not in a position to start something like that at the moment (even though I could really use one too), but I could draw a little diagram to better illustrate what I'm thinking of you'd like.
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I don't have materials on hand to make a sample and I'm not in a position to start something like that at the moment (even though I could really use one too), but I could draw a little diagram to better illustrate what I'm thinking of if you'd like.
i think i understand what you mean, its just that if a project involves anything other than wire, switches or buttons then it tends not to work for me, but a diagram couldn't hurt, if you could make it as simple as possible too, that'd help!
at the moment im in the planning stages, in that i know roughly what id like to do and how id like to do it, if i can save a bit of money by not installing switches that'd be great!
of course, when i get the parts together i'll start a make thread...
(EDIT: ....and we've totally hijacked this guys thread!...)
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But the SNES has a sliding power button, that's a moving part ;)
(http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/wiggyx/Game%20Stuff/DSC02357.jpg)
Check that beefy bastard out ;)
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This is what I was thinking for a super cheapo switchless switchbox.
(http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/wiggyx/Game%20Stuff/cheapo-RCA-switchbox.png)
No switches (obviously), just diodes to keep signal from traveling back to other, not-in-use consoles. Like I said before, just don't switch two on at once. Just make sure to put the diodes BEFORE each + junction so that turning two on at once won't allow one to feed into another.
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I'm not sure that the diodes are all that necessary actually. But eh, it's not like they're going to be difficult to install or cost all that much.
I might build something like this.
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I don't know if they are a necessity either, but it does seem like a 'better safe than sorry' precaution to me ;)
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ok, first, thanks for the diagram wiggy, i see exactly what you mean now!,
second, what type of diode would i use?, the place where im going to get my parts from has 7 different types ???